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Chateau Rouge

CR intro

 

For the past few weeks Paris has had me in its picturesque, seductive clutches. It was fun but looking back at my images I did wonder, where was the challenge? Normally my thing is to seek out the beauty in the ‘unbeautiful’. And ‘unbeautiful’ ain’t Le Marais nor Les Batignolles.

It was time to get back to my mission brief.

My choice for this week was also influenced by the recent election here. All the talk about immigration leading up to the big day was a stark reminder that for many, Paris is a crowded 25sqm room shared with a handful of other people, and no prospect of a job any time soon.

Nowhere could this be more true than in the 18th arrondissement, around a neighbourhood called Chateau Rouge. Also referred to as la Goutte d’Or, this is the Little Africa of Paris. Exotic foods, tick, but also a slew of problems that can’t be fixed overnight, even if there is a new government in power.

Quickest ‘history’ ever – the hood is named after a red castle that no longer exists. Done.

Okay, iPhones away (will explain later), cameras away (ditto), let’s swagger…

 

Part 1: F-f-f-fashion

Amazingly, Chateau Rouge is just minutes away from tourist-crazed Montmartre and its top drawcard, the Sacre Coeur. One minute it’s all pretty pretty, then suddenly you’re wondering, what happened? Where did Paris go?

Unlike Faubourg Saint Denis, where there are really just a few streets dedicated to African hair and where there’s a strong bobo presence, this neighbourhood seems to be entirely African and Arab. Markets here offer gombo not oysters or foie gras, and you have to elbow your way through or be elbowed. Shops are filled with colourful African materials not trendy western gear. Butchers are halal. Welcome to Little Africa.

But at the end of the main open-air market a police car is almost permanently parked – along with the colourful exoticism are serious drug and crime problems. Add illegal immigration into the mix and you start to understand why the locals were incredibly unhappy about me and my camera pitching up. One woman explained that some Africans would even be afraid I might use their photos to do, er, black magic.

Up against it, I very quickly realised that any sort of in-depth photographic exploration of the area wasn’t going to be possible. No one was about to invite me into their lives and share.

At one point I almost abandoned ship. Then I’d get some kind soul to agree to a photo (even if they did give me no more than five seconds to take the shot) and I’d think, okay, maybe this will work.

Since I wasn’t going to be able to do anything too deep, I decided to explore one particular facet of Little Africa – its fashion.

The neighbourhood is filled with men and women who continue to dress as they would if they still lived in Africa – only now they’re in Paris, amongst the berets and trench-coats. The shock of hot, vivid colour against a sea of western blah and sombre tones is just fantastic.

Then there are the Africans who take their colourful heritage and apply it to a more contemporary look. I especially loved the men who wear suits, but in a playful, inventive way. I’d actually go so far to say that it was in Chateau Rouge that I saw the most interesting fashion that I’ve seen so far in all of Paris (not that I hang with the fashionistas of course).

Fashion, as an expression of one’s culture… très intéressant!

 

Little Africa, 'Lowest Prices'

Little Africa, 'Lowest Prices'

 

 

 

Chateau Rouge is right next door to the Sacre Coeur

Chateau Rouge is right next door to the Sacre Coeur

 

 

 

First up, the men…

 

 

Sayra

Sayra

 

 

 

Zongo, fashion designer

Zongo, fashion designer

 

 

 

The man below was very reluctant to be snapped. I explained I just wanted to take a shot of his inventive tie and not his face. “But it’s my creation” he said. Eventually after minutes of discussion he caved – and I had precisely three seconds to take the shot.

 

 

 

when worlds collide

when worlds collide

 

 

 

Next was Jean, interior designer. Different story entirely. He was one of the few who was quite happy to be photographed – and why not? Just look at that suit.

 

 

for one thing, Jean is wearing Burberry with a purple tie and tartan cap. Dangerous!

for one thing, Jean is wearing Burberry with a purple tie and tartan cap. Dangerous!

 

 

 

I ran into Jean again a few days later. He was wearing the same suit but with a different hat, tie and shoes. Could I please take another shot…

 

 

 

and he did!

and he did!

 

 

 

even Obama gives Jean's style the thumbs up

even Obama gives Jean's style the thumbs up

 

 

 

Then there were these guys…

 

 

 

check me out!

check me out!

 

 

 

religious bling

religious bling

 

 

 

after a trip to the Hammam he felt cleaner and brighter all over

after a trip to the Hammam he felt cleaner and brighter all over

 

 

 

Part 2: Senghor from Senegal

Okay, so this dude in his voluminous boubou deserves a section all of his own. I know nothing more about him other than his name and where he comes from, but my imagination rushed into the vacuum of information and filled it right up. To me he’s a witch-doctor-ish, magic man who appears out of nowhere and travels not by metro but by forces unknown. You could have knocked me over with a chicken feather when he said, yes, you can photograph me.

 

 

Senghor from Senegal

Senghor from Senegal

 

 

 

with one wave of my magic wand, I can make 1000 volts shoot through the air

with one wave of my magic wand, I can make 1000 volts shoot through the air

 

 

 

where'd you get those D&G sunnies from?

where'd you get those D&G sunnies from?

 

 

 

off to make magic with his gombo

off to make magic with his gombo

 

 

 

And while we’re on the subject of magical things…

 

 

and the note on the bottle said, Alice, EAT ME

the note on the bottle said, Alice, EAT ME

 

 

 

Part 3: The women

Like my experience of observing the sari clad Indians of Sydney’s Harris Park, I loved watching the African women in traditional dress glide down the streets, so unFrench and yet so much a part of modern day Paris.

 

 

and Chateau Rouge

and Chateau Rouge

 

 

 

wild prints

wild prints

 

 

 

she buys her flowers from Barbes Market to match her hair

she buys her flowers from Barbes Market to match her hair

 

 

 

waiting

waiting

 

 

 

Then there’s the modern look…

 

 

 

Doris, with Jennifer in her hair

Doris, with Jennifer in her hair

 

 

 

Henna girl

Henna girl

 

 

 

French stripes

French stripes

 

 

 

Of course, an African woman’s hair is a big deal. Braided, shaved, extended, coloured, whatever. You gotta do something to your hair.

 

 

now and then

now and then

 

 

 

Part 4: Beyond the fashion

I would have liked to have explored the Arab, Muslim side of the area more – but couldn’t. I lost count of how many Arab men I asked to photograph – in my best French and as respectfully as possible. They were just not into it.

Anyway, the deal is that the neighbourhood has mosque problems. I think there might be two but I only visited one – and from the outside only. You’d miss it if you didn’t notice the small sign, or the collection box sitting on the street outside, raising money I assume to improve the current one or maybe build a new one.

It wasn’t long ago that space problems meant that Muslims in the area were allowed to pray on the streets in front of the mosque. There was all sorts of hoo ha over that and the practice was banned late last year.

There is, however, a major development happening soon – a new, very modern looking Islamic centre is being built nearby and as far as I understand, the mosques might have prayer rooms inside.

 

 

they have their iphones, he has his Islam

they have their iphones, he has his Islam

 

 

 

they must be green with envy of other grander mosques

they must be green with envy of other grander mosques

 

 

 

things are looking up - a new Islamic centre and a new government

things are looking up - a new Islamic centre and a new government

 

 

 

The Wrap

I am fascinated by the African presence in Paris. I understand the reason – France needed labour post-war so they invited all of Africa in – but I just find the contrast between the two cultures so incredibly striking.

It was therefore quite exhilarating to hang out in Little Africa this week. And as frustrating as it was to not be able to photograph more and different facets of the area, I did enjoy the challenge.

So what did I find beautiful in this decidedly unbeautiful neighbourhood? The vibrant colour and the ‘fashion’ for sure, but also the energy of the place. It’s hard to describe but it feels excitable, edgy, as if any minute it will reach a crescendo and… pop!, the whole place will implode.

Oh, and the warning to put away your iPhone and camera? Just passing on what I was told. Apparently if you wander around chatting on your iPhone, you’re very likely to have it plucked out of your hand. And one guy told me his friend was carrying a DSLR camera with the strap around his neck and had his arm broken when someone wrenched it so hard to get the camera off him.

 

 

 

Chateau Rouge, and bleu, orange, vert, rose

Chateau Rouge, and bleu, orange, vert, rose

 

 

 

On the ‘home front’

A lovely Australian blog follower living in Paris for a little while took Coco off this week for some home schooling followed by cartwheels in the park. Coco loved it so hopefully, if the budget holds out, there’ll be a little more of it. On my side, I’d just like the dreary grey stuff to disappear so I can have fun with the sun again, in a photographic sense. And I’d like more sleep too. But who doesn’t?

And to all those in Australia, Happy Mother’s Day!

This suburb has been brought to you by Zoe Thompson

I’ve decided to change my post date to Sunday or Monday by the way. It’s only taken me five months to work out that I’m probably missing a lot of good stuff that happens on the weekend by making my post day Friday and my so-called ‘day off’ on Saturday.

Which would suit you better by the way – Sunday or Monday?

See you next week.

 

  1. Kalinda says:

    Happy Mothers Day Lou. Another great blog babe.

  2. Beachtropic says:

    Monday please Lou, so we can log on at work and. Or miss a thing,
    Great post again, glad Coco is happy!! Enjoy!
    Di xx

  3. Beachtropic says:

    Oh and Happy Mothers Day to you too!! Super mum.

  4. Beachtropic says:

    Dear oh dear. Damn iPad!! *not miss a thing*

  5. Michelle says:

    Please protect your website, I think it’s got a virus/someone hacked it/high risk issue because wherever I log into view your website, I get blocked/warned. Please fix this promptly, I want to enjoy your blog in peace.

  6. Simeon says:

    The best damn tie I’ve ever seen.

    (The site is working fine for me on Firefox check your settings Michelle),

  7. Simeon says:

    Monday posts are better, great way to start the week.

  8. Louise says:

    Kalinda – Thanks darlink! Hope you were spoiled rotten.
    Di – Monday it is then. Makes sense.
    Michelle – Thanks for letting me know, will look into it.
    Simeon – The tie is good isn’t it? He had a great face to go with it too – pity I couldn’t capture that too.

  9. Kristin says:

    Happy Mother’s Day to you, Louise and all mothers.

  10. Louise says:

    Kristin – Yes, mums are precious and amazing huh?

  11. Red Peony says:

    Happy Mother’s Day Louise – great as usual. I visualise Coco enjoying some home schooling followed by cartwheels in the park. It brings a big smile! All the best to you both!!

  12. Gay says:

    Fascinated by all things African, I particularly loved this weeks blog Louise. Definitely not conservative are they! Mothers Day in NZ also. My pressie a ticket to SYD. Wish you were there! But hopefully catch up,with you there at Christmas time. Hope you’re having a lovely day. LL. GG

  13. Michelle says:

    Nailed Chateau Rouge Louise. Brilliant.x

  14. Magdalena says:

    Happy Mother’s Day!!! Bonne fête des mères (hope that’s right) :)

  15. Mary-Ann Hill says:

    Loved the colour and the way you worked through the local resistence to have their story told in pictures. The energy of the place came through in your telling. Your courage came through in the result! Happy Mothers Day to you! Any day for the post is fine for me :) So Monday will work.

  16. Louise says:

    Red Peony – Yeah, Paris home school + cartwheels sounds like a cool life to me too!
    Gay – Oh, say hello to Sydney for me! I miss that beautiful place.
    Michelle – Glad you weren’t disappointed!
    Magdalena – Sounds even better in French don’t you think? Merci.
    Mary-Ann Hill – You describe it well – “the local resistance”. Thanks so much, glad you appreciated the battle!

  17. Anna says:

    Oh any day is a very good day for your blogs Louise but indeed, please include us in your weekends! Loving that tie – think he should collaborate with the square/round glasses designer – these guys obviously want just to have it all! Hugs to you and Coco xox A, C & M xox

  18. Frank Page says:

    Let’s not be choosy – any day is a good day to get your great posts – you do what works best for you. No virus warnings this end – receiving end needs checking. Thanks for the warning on the iPhone & Camera too. Hope that sun returns in June for our visit. Thanks again for your marvellous weekly communique.

  19. Michael Collins says:

    Thanks, again Ms. Hawson. Great work, hope you had a great Mother’s Day last Sunday.

  20. Louise says:

    Anna – I know, the tie! But what about the leopard print hat? And the attitude? So good.
    Frank – Yeah, I don’t want to spook anyone about the iPhone thing but as I said, just passing on the warning. We were in our next suburb yesterday when I was very nearly relieved of my camera and a woman (whose house we took refuge in!) told me the same guys had stolen her iPhone. So just be aware is all I’m saying. These are desperate times for many.
    Michael – Merci! I did have a lovely M Day – worked but Coco made me a beautiful card. And look, I got lucky with that child. She is pure delight and makes my day every day.

  21. David says:

    Do you know that Jean and his friends are part of a cultural movement called the “SAPOLOGIE” or “SAPE”?
    “Saper” is slang for “dressing well” or “over-dressing” :D
    These gentlemen are usually from Congo and takes the Sapologie very seriously ;-)
    Check out this link http://www.rtbot.net/sapeurs.
    Loving your pics and posts!

    • Louise says:

      David, how interesting! And it makes sense – they really do seem part of a movement and those two guys were so happy to be photographed. I’m sure it puts a spring in their step – as well as raising smiles on other people’s faces.

  22. Carrie says:

    Please do Mondays, if that’s not already decided. It’s a colourful antidote to the prosaic reality of Monday-itis. Your posts are keeping me sane while working full-time and studying for exams, being more hopelessly desk-bound than I would like!

    • Louise says:

      Carrie, yep, Monday’s the new post day – so your sanity is assured!

  23. Robert says:

    It happens all too often that taking photos is seen as a risk in some places,even in Australia.
    A small inconspicuous P&S camera can be hidden and bought out when you get set for the shot.
    Leave the big boy Canon home or lose it. Sadly some of these people are so desperate,they see $$$ when they see an iPhone or camera.
    There are places in Aust BTW that are very African these days too.
    Looking forward to your next city,(Berlin?)

  24. Myriam says:

    Another great post Louise!! I really love how you’re taking us on a journey to the unexpected…

  25. Myriam says:

    And yes, Monday is a good day, nice way to start the week, reading your posts whilst sipping a latte :)

    • Louise says:

      Myriam, glad I can oblige!

  26. matt H says:

    Dear Louise, brilliant photos like usual. You manage to capture people so well… even when it’s awkward!
    Hope you get sun soon
    matt

  27. A montreuillois parmi les autres says:

    Merci, thank you !
    Nice to begin @ “La Noue”, a beautiful place with Montreuil’s cousin-city : Bagnolet.
    You’re right in the target with a so precise look at our (my…) city, and I’m glad that you show it with so much talent.
    Merci mille fois !

    • Louise says:

      Mathieu – Merci beaucoup! Could I ask you though to re-post your comment in the Montreuil post? Merci!

  28. maryanne blacker says:

    Gorgeous to see Paris in all her glory. Love those neighbourhoods. Whenever I catch Line 2, the energy & colours of Barbes Rochechouart et al always hits me.
    Great job, Louise. Love the colour combining. http://www.maryanneblacker.com

    • Louise says:

      Maryanne, merci! I miss that colour and energy – and it’s only been a day since we left Paris! Having arrived quite lukewarm about the city I left as a fan – and a large part of that was due to the mix of people there, especially the African population. And those flamboyant Sappeurs, love ‘em.

  29. Suz says:

    I’ve been enjoying your 52 Suburbs blog & now reading 52 around the world …. you’ve encouraged me to go out and explore my city (also Sydney) ….those potted shoes made me smile, I have those exact shoes, although I wear mine! Wonderful reading thanks for the inspiration (;

    • Louise says:

      Suz – Well, you know what to do with your shoes if you tire of them! So glad I’ve inspired you to get out there.

  30. John says:

    Interesting. But how are you defining “suburb” for this exercise?

    • Louise says:

      In Australia our neighbourhoods are known as suburbs, even if they’re close to the city centre – whereas pretty much everywhere else, ‘suburbs’ are far from city centres and generally are more ‘suburban’. So really, to make it easier for the rest of the world, I should have called the project 52 Neighbourhoods Around the World. I called it 52 Suburbs mainly because it follows on from my Sydney based project called 52 Suburbs. Clear as mud?!

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