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Echo Park

EP intro

 

Week two in LA and we’re heading just north of downtown to Echo Park.

A neighbourhood that, pre-WWI, was the Hollywood of LA, the place all the film studios called home. Charlie Chaplin, Westerns etc.

After the ‘white flight’ post-WWII, Latinos and gangs moved in but more recently in the last decade it’s been artists and hipsters, seeking a cheaper alternative to neighbouring uber-hip Silver Lake.

Echo Park’s main drag is on Sunset Boulevard, which, despite all the romantic imagery those two words conjure up, is pretty run-down in parts, with the occasional hipster-friendly shop or cafe. Much like Sydney’s Paramatta Road, around Annandale, for example. The hilly bits above Sunset, on the other hand, reminded me of some parts of Sydney’s Northern Beaches.

Now, apparently it’s still a real mix of people but truly, everyone we met – the non-Latinos at least – were all writers, musicians or actors.

But by “everyone” I mean, ooh, maybe ten people. As the guy in the bookshop explained, LA isn’t a “sidewalk culture” (okay, maybe Venice Beach is, but not here).

In other words, people were very thin on the ground, literally.

So, given the lack of bods and the fact we’re in the land of make believe – and that Echo Park has some relationship of one kind or another with various LA writers like Raymond Chandler and Bukowski – I decided this post would be a little different…

Lights, camera, action…

 

FADE IN

Irene, a passionate landscape architect and vintage collector from Arizona, has arrived in LA to pursue her dream of becoming a famous actress. She narrates her story…

 

 

I had come to LA to become a big time actress

I had come to LA to become a big time actress.

 

 

 

 

Sure, I loved my plants and my vintage clothes but I wanted fame

Sure, I loved plants and my vintage clothes but I was hungry for fame.

 

 

 

 

I got me a place in West Hollywood, just big enough to fit me and my precious wardrobe

I got a place in West Hollywood, just big enough to fit me and my precious wardrobe.

 

 

 

 

But lady luck didn’t do me any favours and I had to move my stuff to cheaper digs at Echo Park

But Lady Luck didn’t do me any favours and I had to move my stuff to cheaper digs at Echo Park.

 

 

 

 

I liked Echo Park more anyway, the folks were less uptight there.

I liked Echo Park more anyway, the folks were less uptight there.

 

 

 

 

But my dream of making it in Hollywood was going nowhere fast.

But my dream of making it in Hollywood was going nowhere fast.

 

 

 

 

Then one day I got a call from a big shot agent. Come up to Silver Lake and we’ll talk, he said.

 

 

I tossed my vintage bag in my 1965 Cadillac Coupe de Ville and headed up Silver Lake Blvd

I tossed my vintage bag in my 1965 Cadillac Coupe de Ville and headed up Silver Lake Blvd.

 

 

 

 

Soon as I stepped out of the car a hideous creature lurched at me - “Can I give you a hand, muhahaha!”

Soon as I stepped out of the car a hideous creature lurched at me – “Can I give you a hand, muhahaha!”

 

 

 

 

Then a woman who looked scarily like Frida Kahlo came out of the house but when I looked back she wasn’t there

Then a woman who looked like Frida Kahlo came out of the house but when I looked back she wasn’t there.

 

 

 

 

Suddenly from behind the Golden Barrel cactus a man leapt out with a gun.

Suddenly from behind the Golden Barrel Cacti a man leapt out with a gun.

 

 

 

 

The light was blinding but I could see he meant business.

The light was blinding but I could see this fella meant business.

 

 

 

 

I kicked him where it hurt and the gun landed near the cactus. I ran to the car and spe

I kicked him where it hurt and the gun landed near the cacti. I hightailed it to the car and sped off.

 

 

 

 

Who wanted me dead? Was it the Karate Kid, the proud Chicano who didn't like the hipsters moving into Echo Park?

Who wanted me dead? Was it Karate Kid, the proud Chicano who didn’t like the artists moving into Echo Park?

 

 

 

 

Or was it one of my ex-lovers, like moody Mike?

Or was it one of my ex-lovers, like moody Mike?

 

 

 

 

Or his jealous girlfriend who lived down the road at Silver Lake Palms?

Or his jealous girlfriend, lonely Lola, who lived down the road at Silver Lake Palms?

 

 

 

 

Or my other men, Eddie, Bill, Jack (I'd been busy).

Or my other fellas, Eddie, Bill and Jack (I’d been busy).

 

 

 

 

Maybe it was Philip, the landscape gardener who felt threatened by my knowledge of Euphorbia cacti

Maybe it was Philip, the landscape gardener who felt threatened by my knowledge of Euphorbia cacti.

 

 

 

 

I started having nightmares of finding a skeleton in the boot of a car.

I started having nightmares of finding a skeleton in the boot of a car.

 

 

 

 

I'd recognise those teeth anywhere, it was sweet John, the musician who lived next door to me!

I’d recognise those teeth anywhere, it was sweet John, the musician who lived next door to me!

 

 

 

 

My nightmares were also filled with ghoulish faces.

My nightmares were also filled with ghoulish faces.

 

 

 

 

I saw ancestors I didn’t know I had, and made offerings like they do in Mexico.

I saw ancestors I didn’t know I had, and made offerings like they do in Mexico.

 

 

 

 

In the nightmares I was Cuban so I set up coffee and a cigar for my dad.

In the nightmares I was Cuban so I set up coffee and a cigar for my dad.

 

 

 

 

And chrysanthemums for my mum.

And chrysanthemums for my mum.

 

 

 

 

And I prayed and wept at their graves.

And I prayed and wept at their graves.

 

 

 

 What did it all mean?

 

 

What did it all mean? One night at the Gold Room I met a woman with a quote from Bukowski tattooed on her arm, 'Don't Try'

Then one night at the Gold Room I met a woman with a quote from Bukowski tattooed on her arm, ‘Don’t Try’.

 

 

 

 

Suddenly it all made sense. Later that night I met a man who smoked a pipe. It was love at first sight

Suddenly it all made sense. Later that night I met a man who smoked a pipe. It was love at first sight.

 

 

 

 

The fact he smoked a vintage Corn Cob pipe just made me love him even more.

The fact he smoked a vintage Corn Cob pipe just made me love him even more.

 

 

 

 

On a stormy night over a bottle of bourbon at the Olive Motel we made plans to live a life together

On a stormy night over a bottle of bourbon at the Olive Motel we made plans to live a life together.

 

 

 

 

Two days later we got hitched at the local church.

Two days later we got hitched at the local church.

 

 

 

 

We invited everyone from Echo Park, including Juan the fruit guy.

We invited everyone from Echo Park, including Juan the fruit guy.

 

 

 

 

We both loved vintage as well as plants so we decided to start up a business together combining the two

We both loved vintage as well as plants so we decided to start up a business together combining the two.

 

 

 

 

Unlike my acting career, our business, ‘vintage + plants’, took off like my Cadillac up Sunset Blvd

Unlike my acting career, our business, ‘vintage + plants’, took off like my Cadillac up Sunset Blvd.

 

 

 

 

And we bought a pug too. ‘Cos you gotta have a pug when you live in Echo Park.

And we bought a pug too. ‘Cos you gotta have a pug when you live in Echo Park.

 

 

 

 

The End.

The End.

 

 

 

 

CREDITS

Cast, in order of appearance:

Maya Stein (student and fifth generation of the original Mexicans in LA from the 1700s) in intro image

Irene (vintage mannequin), appearing as herself

Andy (musician) and injured dog Whelan, as themselves

Maria (unknown career), as Frida Kahlo

Matthew (pathology assistant), the guy with the gun, as the hit man (Yes, real gun, he has… three)

Gerado (17 year old student), as Karate Kid

Ned Casual (musician, actor, painter), as moody Mike

Rosie (from England, out here with punk rock dad), as lonely Lola

Unknowns as Eddie and Bill

Manuk (actor, photographer), as Jack

Unknowns as Ghoulish faces

Dominga Perez Padron and Jose Ramon Padron as dearly departed Mexicans in photographs at an early Day of the Dead celebration in Echo Park

Eric (stage actor, newly arrived from Chicago) as the Man who Smoked a Pipe

Unknown as Juan.

Bronson the pug as himself.

 

COSTUME

All vintage clothing by Flounce Vintage, Echo Park.

 

The Wrap

Pretty kooky huh? Well, silly it may be but it was kind of fun to do. I didn’t have the idea until after I’d shot 99% of the shots so it was like piecing a storyboard together, albeit with limited images.

To anyone who I photographed, I hope you don’t mind that I’ve cast you as a character in this strange little production. As I said, I didn’t know at the time that I was going to use your photos like this. Please email me if you’d prefer not to be involved. (I may then have to kill you off… oh dear, it’s all getting rather complicated…)

Anyway, to round out the picture of Echo Park, I should say that it has more than just seedy, run-down motels/apartment blocks (which I personally love for some reason). There’s a range of architecture there, from the grand Victorians in the area called Angelino Heights, to some nice Modernist homes. It also has a major sports stadium, a huge park and a lake that would be filled with lotus flowers if it weren’t for the fact it’s currently under renovation and looks more building site-ish than anything lovely.

 

 

 

playing dress-up at Flounce

playing dress-up at Flounce

 

 

 

On the ‘home front’

Coco had a ball at Echo Parks’ Flounce Vintage, trying on pretty much every pair of shoes in the place as well as all the lovely old hats. And she also loved all the dancing at the Mexican Day of the Dead celebration we stumbled on while we were in the neighbourhood.

But the real highlight of the week? Disneyland! She has my friend Fiona to thank for that – if it’d been up to me, we’d never have gone. But Fiona offered to take Coco and then I felt I had to go too, so off we all went, with Fiona’s 13 year old, Katie, in tow. How was it? Hugely fun. Except for Space Mountain. It was terrifying. Not the spooky imagery but the way you hurtled through complete darkness at unbelievable speed, violently jerking this way and that at every turn. Coco and I clung on to each other, me screaming “JUST SHUT YOUR EYES!” and Coco screaming back, “IT DOESN’T HELP!”, totally convinced she was about to be thrown out of the cart at any moment. I swear it was the most freaked out either of us have been since we left Sydney more than 10 months ago – at Disneyland!

This suburb has been brought to you by Triscia from Fresco Creative

See you next week.

 

  1. Rachel Bentley says:

    Hi Louise
    I hope you and Coco are still travelling happily. I’ve been following your blogs and really loving them. the pictures are great and they seem sort of intimate and visually very strong. You may recall we did the interview with you when you launched 52 Suburbs for TVS and we played it lots. when you get home would you like to do another interview on your second book (I hope) and the life of a modern gypsy ! – perhaps we could turn it into an Australian story (ABC) type program or play on TVS . Clearly you might want to coproduce on it so that you can control the photos that are selected within the story or even be involved in the edit. I also think would be good to cover crowd funding and the people who got you there.. anyway just some random thoughts as I open your blog this morning :) Keep the pictures coming. Coco is growing up. all the best. Rachel Bentley Television Sydney (TVS 44)

  2. Nadine says:

    Loved this post!! Great story :)

  3. Nikki says:

    Brilliant post… love the production keep up the fantastic shots

  4. Nicole says:

    So light hearted Lou! I loved it. Thanks for providing a new version of entertainment. I love how Disneyland is scarier than your adventures across so many countries!! That has to be a key insight from your travels!

  5. chris says:

    Love the narrative of this posting. One of my favourites of your journey

  6. di says:

    Loved the post Louise, such fun, I can imagine a ‘Louise and Coco’ story in a similar vein!

  7. Ben G Morgan says:

    Again, there’s something calm in these photographs. I feel a cool breeze washing through all of them. And there’s nothing like a bit of creative writing to tell the story. Beautiful! Thanks Louise.

  8. Fay Thomson says:

    The story moved forward . Glad of the happy ever after. Pity about the smoking.

  9. Suzanne says:

    ah you’ve missed your calling, script writer extraordinaire! x

  10. Jennifer says:

    I love this post! I drooled over the images captured and chortled over Irene’s dilemma…Thanks Louise!

  11. Di @ beachtropic says:

    Oh god, I loved it. I’ve gone back and read this post 3 times. I love the old motels and apartment blocks too. Somehow they remind me of crime novels. I agree, a Louise and Coco story please pretty please.
    Di – Beachtropic

  12. Di @ beachtropic says:

    Oh, and I love the shots of Coco. She has grown so much, she is quite the young lady now isn’t she!! xx

  13. barbara hall says:

    Disneyland is awesome – when we were in California I seriously didn’t want to go but like you I went with the kids, I remember Space Mountain well, I was totally convinced that my daughter who was about six years old was going over the side – into what?? Such a relief to get off , the magical Peter Pan ride was so much more my thing

  14. Gloria says:

    Loved this post! So much fun, Made me smile. I always love getting to the “home front” news… glad you are both well x

  15. Mary Kay says:

    So entertaining Louise! The ever resilient Coco still looks none the worse for wear! We miss you guys, but can’t wait for the next post!

  16. TRENT COLLINS says:

    Keep up the great work- loving every week.

  17. Belinda says:

    Haha, Space Mountain. I convinced my 4 year old son and my Mum to go on with me…. Dad pulled out when he saw the warnings about not going on if you have issues with blood pressure. I thought he was just being a wimp. Then we went on the ride. Oh my goodness! I screamed the whole way through. At the end 4 year old son just stated “I don’t think I want to go on that one again”, lol

  18. Kristin says:

    What a great story! Love your photos, as usual.

  19. Gail says:

    Great post! So imaginative and evocative of L.A. Can’t wait for the next instalment.

  20. Tania says:

    Loved it Louise. Thanks for brightening up a dreary day at work. x

  21. Sarah says:

    I agree about Space Mountain, I am sure my back is somewhere on one of the turns!!!
    Great pictures this week Louise, Ms Coco is growing up so fast, she looks a lot older in this weeks photos!

  22. Wayne says:

    Parramatta Road Annandale – OK! :)
    Fab images as always Louise. Loved the novella!

  23. Pennie says:

    One of your best posts yet Louise. Fabulous stuff :-)

  24. Peggy says:

    Love this! A very different take on your usual posts, but fitting, given the setting. Also of note – that hat Coco’s trying from Flounce. Very cute!

    Hope you are both well and can’t wait for the next installment! Safe travels.

  25. Brent says:

    What is in the water in Echo Park? What is in the water in Echo Park? This is post such a departure for you but it is fantastic I love the narrative really interesting and the shots a fantastic! Frida Khalo and the pug in the car are my faves but so is the man smoking the corn cob pipe and the man
    holding the gun and the………………..

  26. katerina says:

    Oh my gosh !!! Coco has changed so much,growing up

  27. ellen says:

    cool and as for disney land i liked it to didnt go on space mountain tho

  28. pat says:

    Well your next career will be writing books!! Loved the pictures with your sense of humour showing through as usual.

  29. Gaylee says:

    YOU ARE BRILLANT!!!!
    And those shoes fit Coco’s wee feet..what fun.
    Fantastic shots Louise and the plot unravelling!
    Must talk to Liz!! GG

  30. John Ellis says:

    Delightfully amusing.

  31. Louise says:

    Dear all – Forgive me for not responding to you each individually as I usually do. I’m so glad you enjoyed this departure from the norm. If it wasn’t for Matthew and the fact he was happy to whip his gun out from the back seat of his car and have me photograph him with it, Irene may never have seen the light of day. I just kept staring at those shots of him and the gun, thinking, it looks like something out of a detective story… x

  32. KT says:

    Fabulous post, Louise!

  33. Joel says:

    Saw you in the Herald again today. Have you been in there every month, and I’ve just never noticed before last month? =P

    • Louise says:

      Joel – Yep! Like clockwork. Up to number 10 now I think. They’re always a kind of precis of 3-4 installments from this blog, with a ‘best of’ selection of images. 52 Suburbs Lite!

  34. Rob Steer says:

    Lots of fun, I really liked the story and how you built it around images you’d already shot. As always beautiful, intimate images, juxtaposed brilliantly. Again your use of colour and DOF are just beautiful.

  35. Fistrel says:

    Yes, Louise, one of the best! And really, Space Mountain wasn’t that scary. Next time, we’ll go to Magic Mountain. You’ll love the Viper.

  36. Chris K says:

    Loved the story Louise. There’s a great sense of seediness to the photos — a great canvas! Sorry you’re missing the Frankenstorm in NY.

    • Louise says:

      Chris – That storm looks nasty – hope you’re all okay!

  37. Brent says:

    As usual…your photographs reflect your approach to life – bold, courageous, insightful. What a wonderful story you and your daughter are writing. Amazing work Louise.

    • Louise says:

      Brent – A beautiful reflection, many thanks mister!

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