38

Limert Park

LP intro

 

Hey. Or should I say, konnichiha! Yes, we’re in Tokyo. Which I have to say is pretty damn exciting. But before I can leave our micro-sized apartment and launch myself on yet another unsuspecting populace (“You want to photograph my stockings?”) here’s the third and final LA story…

(Well, short story that is. I started late and finished early – and found the streets even more deserted of humankind than in the last two weeks. Grrr.)

Having ‘done’ Latino in week one and then artist/hipster last week, I wanted the final LA post to focus on a black neighbourhood. Which in LA means south – which in turn means potentially dodgy as. My inner thrill seeker was all, yeah, go to South Central (as in riots), go to Compton (as in hip hop NWA’s ‘Straight Outta Compton’).

But when I mentioned this to people, they’d be all, “honey, I’m black and I wouldn’t even go there”.

Bravely/stupidly I ignored their advice. But aside from snapping a few churches and a man called Clyde, I didn’t dally – not because I felt unsafe but because it was kind of nondescript.

I finally ended up just south-west of downtown LA in a black neighbourhood called Limert Park, the ‘centre of African-American culture’. While I completely failed to capture said culture in the five seconds I spent there, I did stumble on an interesting church congregation and a couple of cars…

 

Part 1: You gotta have faith

While I’m not religious, I do love a black church – like the one I met sweet Flossie at in NY.

So I went in search. Starting with a couple of tiny, almost hand-made looking churches in South Central…

 

 

hand-made churches, South Central :: 1

hand-made churches, South Central :: 1

 

 

 

 

hand-made churches, South Central :: 2

hand-made churches, South Central :: 2

 

 

 

Coco and I stuck our noses in the church above – where we met Tasha, below – before being given the third degree by one of the organisers. We were in South Central I guess…

 

 

Tasha inside God's Tabernacle of Faith

Tasha inside God’s Tabernacle of Faith

 

 

 

 

Then it was onto Limert Park. Third time lucky…

 

 

an unlikely looking church - Brenda, Casandra and Kelvin outside New Life Ministries

an unlikely looking church – Brenda, Casandra and Kelvin outside New Life Ministries

 

 

 

 

Unlike the two South Central churches we’d seen, New Life Ministries looked nothing like a house of worship. I would’ve driven straight past it in fact had it not been for the intensely bright LA sun, lighting up the canary yellow outfit worn by a member of the congregation, Casandra. This is what caught my eye…

 

 

lit up by the sun - Casandra

aglow – Casandra

 

 

 

 

I circled back, raced out of the car and found Casandra – “You, madam, are a vision. May I take your photograph?”

As I walked into the small room, I quickly realised Casandra wasn’t the only vision. Here was a handful of people who took their Sunday best seriously…

 

 

"We're part of the Pentecostal church"

“We like to dress up”

 

 

 

The colours and patterns were even more intense when they stood or sat near the door’s blinding light.

 

 

the big cheese - Bishop Hutchins

the big cheese – Bishop Hutchins

 

 

 

 

retired banker, furniture liquidator and entrepreneur - 66 year old Casandra

retired banker, furniture liquidator and entrepreneur – 66 year old Casandra

 

 

 

 The incredibly friendly and warm Casandra explained that for her, church was everything.

 

 

"God is first in my life"

“God is first in my life”

 

 

 

 I suspect dressing up comes a close second.

 

 

and the fashion

and the fashion

 

 

 

 

"You should see what I'm wearing to church on Friday night"

“You should see what I’m wearing to church on Friday night”

 

 

 

 

"We've been best friends for 17 years" - Casandra and Brenda

“We’ve been best friends for 17 years” – Casandra and Brenda

 

 

 

 

The church is small – around 20 people – but it appeared to have at least three preachers as well as the Bishop. But just because you’re a holy man doesn’t mean you can’t look sharp…

 

 

off to another church - preachers George, Al and Phillip

off to another church – preachers George, Al and Phillip

 

 

 

 

steppin' out

steppin’ out

 

 

 

 

peach

peach

 

 

 

 

As I was photographing the guys, Brenda wandered over to them and suddenly burst into song – with the most beautiful voice.

 

 

gospel on the sidewalk - Brenda :: 1

gospel on the sidewalk – Brenda :: 1

 

 

 

 

gospel on the sidewalk - Brenda :: 2

gospel on the sidewalk – Brenda :: 2

 

 

 

 

gospel on the sidewalk - Brenda :: 3

gospel on the sidewalk – Brenda :: 3

 

 

 

 

Part 2: Random people in Limert Park

Starting with HD and Ishonay. HD told me he was a famous rapper. He had me going until I questioned him again – “Nah, I’m at school, studying to be a psychiatrist.”

 

 

"I'm a famous rapper…. okay, not really" - HD and girlfriend, Ishonay

“I’m a famous rapper…. okay, not really” – HD and girlfriend, Ishonay

 

 

 

 

"I'm studying to be a social worker" - Ishonay

“I’m studying to be a social worker” – Ishonay

 

 

 

 

I don’t know why I asked them to put their foreheads together – but later that day, just around the corner from where I photographed the couple, I found a similar image…

 

 

union

union

 

 

 

 

On another visit I met a gaggle of girls, living around the corner from the main street in Limert Park.

 

 

playtime

playtime

 

 

 

 

"hurry up, I'm getting squashed!" - Amelia, Tatiana and Kimberly

“hurry up, I’m getting squashed!” – Amelia, Tatiana and Kimberly

 

 

 

 

Part 3: Classic cars

You gotta have wheels in LA. Even if they’re small…

 

 

"You married? I gotta find a good woman to help me spend my money" - Clyde

“You married? I gotta find a good woman to help me spend my money” – Clyde

 

 

 

 

"Come up and see me sometime, I live here, in this building"

“Come up and see me sometime, I live here, in this building”

 

 

 

 

On our last visit to the area, after meeting Casandra et al at the church, Coco and I wandered over to Limert Park just before sunset – only to find that the place was in full swing, with a market and drum circle in the neighbourhood park, and a line-up of classic cars across the road from there. Suddenly, after days of nothing happening and no-one around, there was too much to shoot – the light was about to go so I chose the cars. But as soon we got over there, the LAPD turned up and told the cars to stop clogging the street and move on. I had time to take two or three shots only. Blah!

Los Angeles – a much more interesting city than I’d imagined but a bugger to photograph.

 

 

cruisin' :: 1

cruisin’ :: 1

 

 

 

 

cruisin' :: 2

cruisin’ :: 2

 

 

 

 

"Move your cars now or they will be towed" - LAPD

“Move your cars now or they will be towed” – LAPD

 

 

 

 

LA passions

LA passions

 

 

 

 

Part 4: The woman in the red turban

So that was Limert Park. But before we leave the neighbourhood I want you meet one last person – 80-something Margaret. It was her red turban that first attracted me but it’ll be her blue eyes that I’ll always remember. That and her cussin’.

 

 

the red turban - Margaret

the red turban – Margaret

 

 

 

 

"I don't take no BS from no-one" - Margaret

“I don’t take no BS from no-one” – Margaret

 

 

 

 

dear Margaret, may a palm tree by the ocean come your way one day

dear Margaret, may a palm tree by the ocean come your way one day

 

 

 

 

The Wrap

As I said, it was a particularly short week which meant hardly any time at all to explore – I barely scratched the surface of Limert Park and wished I could’ve seen more. But I loved meeting Casandra and her congregation, as well as feisty Margaret. And those cars. Petrol guzzlers they may be but they are just so cool.

 

 

adios LA

adios LA

 

 

 

 

Coco and Casandra

Coco and Casandra

 

 

On the ‘home front’

When I arrived in LA, my opinion of the city was pretty low – a gateway to somewhere else much more appealing or a necessary stop-over on the way back to Australia. Three weeks later I’m starting to realise that it’s a city that requires much peeling back of its layers to reveal its full charms. LA – it’s not a dump (or the moon) – it’s an onion.

Many thanks to our friends, Fiona, Steve, Katie and Jacob. And to Esmeralda, our GPS – I’m not kidding when I say I could not have survived LA without you.

So, adios LA and konnichiha Tokyo! As soon as I hit ‘Publish’ on this post, Coco and I will be out the door. Having never been here before there is much to explore. I can’t wait to show you…

 —

This suburb has been brought to you by Shirl and Vaughan

See you next week.

 

  1. Fistrel says:

    Very cool. Too bad you didn’t have more time to explore South Central — bad name, good peeps.

    Loved the final palm trees. Home is always wherever I’m not, but when I return to LA, and spot the palms from the 110, I know I’m at one of them.

    Made all the better by seeing you and Coco.

  2. Millie says:

    Your blogs are wonderful, you certainly know how to peel the layers back and reveal….. and your photos have a life of their own. Great work.

  3. Bargy says:

    Congratulations. This is your best post ever!
    Loved the characters, art deco ( red turbin reminded me of a Jeffery smart painting).

  4. ric says:

    Fantastic photos!

  5. John Ellis says:

    A detail of America that one knows about but could not put a face to. Some of your best photos.

  6. Annie says:

    konnichiwa. Glad you’ve made it to Tokyo, looking forwrard to seeing it through your eyes.

  7. Lisette says:

    This post may have been a short one, but it feels like an emotionally warm one, and the people you met and portray certainly seem like very warm people. Too bad you didn’t have more time, but hey, new sights and sounds beckon…

    Can’t wait to see Tokyo through your eyes!

    Have a great week,
    Lisette

    http://cutesuite.wordpress.com

  8. tall says:

    i agree with bargy – great post

  9. katerina says:

    Bring on Tokyo !! I know U R probably longing to get back home ,but i have 2 tell U ….wished u & Coco could keep going to other places , this has been the MOST awesome journey with U both !!

  10. jann says:

    Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful!!! Am eagerly awaiting Tokyo, where you’ll have no problem finding people on the streets.

  11. Louise says:

    Fistrel – LA wouldn’t be half the place it is without those palm trees – or you! Many thanks again darlink.
    Millie – Oh, thank you so much!
    Bargy – Wow, really?! Very happy you enjoyed it so much.
    Ric – Gracias.
    John – Ditto!
    Annie – Tokyo is nothing like I imagined – I think I’m in love!
    Lisette – Like I said, LA takes some peeling back – and time to do so. It’s a year long project in itself I reckon.
    Tall – Lovely to see your name pop up – and very glad you enjoyed it.
    Katerina – Home definitely pulls – although really, what I’m craving is to sit still for weeks on end! – but comments like yours make it soooo worthwhile. Many thanks.
    Jann – It’s quite a shock after LA! Actually, I was fearing there would be too many people here – but delighted to find the streets aren’t teeming with people (at least not at rush-hour) – just the right amount so I can hone in on individuals.

  12. SL says:

    You are amazing. Enjoy Tokyo – it’s one of my fav cities in the world.

  13. James Murphy says:

    Hey Lou, I really liked this set of images. There is something about the people, sometimes warm and open sometimes a bit scary. Nice work..x

  14. Helmut says:

    Playtime: Love that photo! The shadows on the wall. It’s so full of energy and happiness.

  15. Louise says:

    SL – Arigato!
    James – Hey mister! Very good to see you’re keeping us company. Glad you enjoyed this week.
    Helmut – Those girls were delightful – they kept trying to do model-esque poses – so I especially liked that their shadows were so child-like.

  16. Whispering Gums says:

    LA, another great place brought alive by your writing and photos. We lived in the OC for three years and spent the first 2 going every where but LA – we went north, east and south but not west into the city. We didn’t explore the areas you did but we found that there was much more to LA than we had thought. When we got the posting to the area I was disappointed, but I ended up a Southern California convert. I’ve been back and will I’m sure go back again. Thanks for reminding me of its colour, strength, fun and warmth.

    • Louise says:

      Whispering Gums – LA’s a slow build for sure – I think you’ve got to hang out there for a while before it reveals any of its charm. Glad you enjoyed the trip down memory lane.

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