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Kagurazaka

K intro

 

Oops.

I had planned to show you a younger face of Tokyo this week but ended up yet again being totally seduced by the old. I just meant to pop my head into Kagurazaka, a neighbourhood on the edge of Shinjuku, because a blog follower who’d lived there said it had “old, cobbled lanes running off of the high street and is one of the remaining areas in the centre of the city that you can still navigate using an Edo-era map” (thanks Laura B!).

Five minutes and then we’d be out of there. Ha. No such luck. Like a moth to a flame I was drawn in once more by those who float down the street, hair upswept, torsos bound and feet sheathed in white.

Ya. Kimonos. I cannot resist them, especially when they’re gliding around an older neighbourhood like Kagurazaka.

I was also sucked in by some beautiful wagashi – Japanese sweets – and the chance of spying geisha (they still frequent the area).

Some background: Kagurazaka is one of the few areas that wasn’t bombed in WWII. We’re talking Tokyo so that doesn’t mean they kept all the old stuff. But there’s more of it than in your average neighbourhood, as well as a cluster of very atmospheric cobbled lanes that Laura had mentioned. There’s also a distinct French presence with lots of little French eateries and, bizarrely, French music being piped down the main street.

Now glide…

 

Part 1: Kimonos in Kagurazaka

I’ve given a lot of thought as to why I’m so taken with the whole kimono look, more so than say with the Indian sari. I think it’s because while saris are extremely beautiful they’re part of the 21st century, still worn by millions of women on the Indian subcontinent as an everyday garment. The kimono on the other hand is a glimpse into the past – most modern Japanese women don’t wear one, and if they do, it’s usually for a special occasion only.

Which is why I love meeting those for whom it’s a passion. Like Emiko, a kimono hobbyist, and Kazuko, a kimono teacher, in the images below. Visit any city in the First World and really, we all look pretty much the same. But not these women. They’re committed to the process of assembling the 12 or more pieces that are required to put together a typical kimono outfit, mixing and matching the various bits in such a way that’s pleasing to their eye and reflective of their personality, and then securing them in the same way Japanese women have been doing so for centuries. One quick glance at an obi and you can tell – there’s no zipper there.

The other reason I’m so drawn to them is because most of them are such beautiful prints. They are moving artworks that literally dress up and enhance what can often be a fairly uninspiring urban landscape – even in Kagurazaka, where there are more old interesting buildings than usual as well as some appealing modern ones.

Anyway, I hope that explains why it’s week four in Tokyo and I’m still photographing kimonos – and as much as I’m trying to limit myself, may continue to do so until the day we say, see ya’ Tokyo.

 

 

straight lines - Emiko in her mother's kimono

“it’s my hobby” – Emiko in her mother’s kimono

 

 

 

 

salmon pink

salmon pink

 

 

 

 

squeezing nature in wherever possible :: 1

squeezing nature in wherever possible :: 1

 

 

 

 

squeezing nature in wherever possible :: 2

squeezing nature in wherever possible :: 2

 

 

 

 

ideal for winding your way to the mountains

ideal for winding your way to the mountains

 

 

 

 

patterns a plenty - Hatue

patterns a plenty – Hatue

 

 

 

 

infinite variety

infinite variety

 

 

 

 

We ran into Emiko and her friend, Yasuko, again at the end of the main road in Kagurazaka where modern Tokyo takes over once more. I loved watching their ancient shapes disappear into the crush of any-city garb.

 

 

heading home -Yasuko and Emiko :: 1

ancient in the modern  :: 1

 

 

 

 

heading home -Yasuko and Emiko :: 2

ancient in the modern :: 2

 

 

 

 

No sooner had they left than another group of kimonos turned up, with Kazuko, a kimono teacher, leading the charge.

 

 

Kazuko, kimono teacher

Kazuko, kimono teacher

 

 

 

 

a work of art

a work of art

 

 

 

 

my assistant - Coco explaining the project

my assistant – Coco explaining the project

 

 

 

 

fans

fans

 

 

 

 

As beautiful as Kazuko’s kimono was, it was the end of another exhausting day – time to do battle in the subway.

 

 

day fades quickly into night

day fades quickly into night in the Japanese autumn

 

 

 

 

rush hour on Tokyo subway

rush hour on Tokyo subway

 

 

 

 

The Japanese are expert at napping on the subway – Coco, absolutely tuckered out by a day of chasing kimonos in Kagurazaka, joined them.

 

 

turning Japanese

turning Japanese

 

 

 

 

Part 2: Coco in kimono

You know how in each city we do a little shoot with Coco dressed in something appropriate? Well, a kimono was the obvious choice for Tokyo but rather than do the whole kid-kimono thing, she wanted a kimono with a twist. So we bought a AUD$10 (cheap!) adult kimono jacket, stripy socks and added pink blush under her eyes, a look you see a fair bit around Tokyo.

Took a few shots of her down a lane – and then ducked up to the temple on the main road where there happened to be some sort of matsuri (festival) going on, to hand out our own offering… 

 

 

half anf half

half and half

 

 

 

 

with the temple dudes

with the temple dudes

 

 

 

 

mini kimono ladies

mini kimono ladies

 

 

 

 

would you like one? :: 1

would you like one? :: 1

 

 

 

 

would you like one? :: 2

would you like one? :: 2

 

 

 

 

would your dog like one?

would your dog like one?

 

 

 

 

what about you, would you like one?

what about you, would you like one?

 

 

 

 

Part 3: Sweet things

After the temple, we went and visited Hisae whom we’d met the first day we arrived in the neighbourhood at her shop, Baikatei, to admire her beautiful sweets once more.

 

 

 

sweet - Hisae outside the 80 year old shop she's had for 45 years

sweet – Hisae outside the 80 year old shop she’s had for 45 years

 

 

 

 

Hisae explained that what makes her sweets so special is the type of sugar they use and the way they process the beans that go inside the sweets. That and the skill of her main man, who makes hundreds of tiny, edible artworks every day…

 

 

from this to...

from this…

 

 

 

 

to this - Camelia Princess

…to this – Camellia Princess

 

 

 

 

I wanted to photograph some of his creations on something that was equally special. So we bought a few and wandered through the back streets of Kagurazaka to find another shop we’d spied earlier that had beautiful hand-made plates amongst other things.

Now, I’m not easily impressed and I’m not much a retail queen, but if I had the moola, I would buy every single item at La Ronde D’Argile. And I’d like to live in the building too, a tiny old house with tatami mats and the most wonderful feeling.

I don’t think the shop’s owner knew quite what to make of us – a kid in a kimono jacket and me, carrying a tray of Japanese sweets, pointing wildly at her plates – ‘Can I please take your plates outside and photograph these sweets on them?’

 

 

anyone?:: 1

anyone for a Camellia Princess?:: 1

 

 

 

 

anyone?:: 2

anyone for a Camellia Princess?:: 2

 

 

 

 

snowmen and Santa :: 1

snowmen and Santa :: 1

 

 

 

 

snowmen and Santa :: 2

snowmen and Santa :: 2

 

 

 

 

After I’d finished snapping the sweets, I couldn’t help taking a few shots of the shop’s interior. Actually, I think it was partly that we just didn’t want to leave. Coco made herself at home on the tatmi mats, drawing and playing a game of rock, paper, scissor in Japanese with a new found friend, while I floated around, uplifted by the tiny house’s good energy.

 

 

the work of 'up and coming Japanese artists'

the work of ‘up and coming Japanese artists’

 

 

 

 

a customer scrutinises the wares

a customer scrutinises the wares

 

 

 

 

while Coco plays with her new friend

while Coco plays with her new friend

 

 

 

 

The only feature of the place I wasn’t fond of was the staircase. Vertiginous in a word.

 

 

scary steep stairs

scary steep stairs

 

 

 

 

drat it, I didn't write down her name - but she's the owner

drat it, I didn’t write down her name – but she’s the owner

 

 

 

 

At some point while playing inside, Coco remembered we’d brought chopsticks to put in her hair and stuck them in. She had the kimono, the napping on trains, the playing rock, paper, scissor in Japanese and the chopsticks. All she needed now was…

 

 

doing the peace sign thing - the transformation is complete

doing the peace sign thing – the transformation is complete

 

 

 

 

I do not know why all Japanese – aside from the kimono women – do the peace sign thing when being photographed. But they do. And now Coco does too.

As we were leaving the neighbourhood for the last time, we ran into Hatue again, an older lady we’d met on a rainy, cold day during the week. Hatue was always in a rush and looked slightly peeved that I was taking up her time. But this time Coco, enlivened by her new Japanese-ness, launched herself at Hatue and gave her an enormous hug. Suddenly Hatue wasn’t in a hurry anymore.

 

 

 

hug

hugging Hatue

 

 

 

 

The Wrap

I loved all the kimonos of course but what about Kagurazaka itself? Well, it was probably the most manicured, upmarket neighbourhood we’d explored so far and at one point I wondered if the people that lived or hung out there were less open, more remote. But a kid in a kimono, a tray of tiny biscuits and a hug were all it took to bring out the best in the Kagurazaka-ites.

As for the built environment, amongst the usual Tokyo low rise there were those few lovely old lanes, some sweet older houses and a few more modern numbers with nice clean lines. And like all of Tokyo – at least the bits we’ve seen – there were no hovels nor no mansions, and no pavements (I get it – not enough space for pavements – but it always surprises me.)

And the French thing? Distracted by all things Japanese, I didn’t pay much attention to it. But that piped muzak, it’s really gotta go.

 

 

 

French? un petit peu

French? un petit peu

 

 

 

On the ‘home front’

Coco’s had a ball this week. Dressing up, meeting new people, playing new games. She’s loved it. And that kimono jacket, well, it hasn’t left her side…

 

 

 

it's amazing what you can hide in your kimono sleeves :: 1

it’s amazing what you can hide in your kimono sleeves :: 1

 

 

 

 

it's amazing what you can hide in your kimono sleeves ::  2

it’s amazing what you can hide in your kimono sleeves :: 2

 

 

 

This suburb has been brought to you by Andrew Leslie

See you next week.

 

  1. pat says:

    I loved this one (as well as all your others), smiled all the way through. I think it is the joyful smile of Coco that really topped it off!! The kimonos are really beautiful!!

  2. Steve says:

    Definitely one of the best posts. They just keep getting better each week!

  3. Lydian says:

    Wonderful post, can’t wait til the next one!

  4. Ellen says:

    Coco growing isnt she love the kimonos xx

  5. Nancy says:

    We LOVE all the photos of Coco this week. What an amazing adventure . Elyse said ” coco looks so beautiful mummy doesn’t she ? ” indeed she does xxx

  6. Red Peony says:

    Louise – you continue to amaze me with this wonderful eye that you have; and I can well understand why you are totally seduced by the kimono. I love it all, especially the one of Coco in her half/half. She wears it such panache and confidence and she looks soooo HAPPY!!!

  7. Evan says:

    The ‘V’ sign when photos are being taken is a remnant of WWII. Occupying forces made the sign, symbolising victory, when taking photos. The Japanese took up the method as a culture copy.

  8. Annie says:

    squeezing in nature no.1 is sublime.
    These Tokyo posts bring me to tears – you really capture the spirit of the place. Thanks Louise

  9. Joel says:

    Oh boy, the peace sign. I’d only been there three days before I found myself whipping it out every time a camera pointed my way. =)

    If you want to try a kimono yourself, I’m pretty sure there’s places where you can rent one. They’ll even help you put it on. Some places even let you try out the really formal ten-layer kimono, though I’d imagine that’s a fair bit more expensive. =)

    One thing, though – just what is Coco handing out at the temple? Did you make them?

    So very jealous…

  10. Kari says:

    Tokyo is your best yet, Louise. It’s been just outstanding each week. And what a joy it is to see Coco having so much fun!

  11. Kylie says:

    Another wonderful Japanese post Louise. It looks like Coco is having a wonderful time. I can’t wait to get to Japan now. Thanks :)

  12. Whispering Gums says:

    And did you notice, not only squeezing nature in but also squeezing cars in. I love seeing the little spots they poke their little cars in. And the occasional situations where the garage is a little too small for the current car so the bonnet pokes out the front with the garage door rolled down as far as it can go. Priceless, and always so neat looking.

    Coco looks gorgeous in her kimono jacket and stripe long socks.

  13. Anna says:

    No need to explain your love affair with the kimono – your gorgeous pictures show us all and we’re feeling heady too … kimono are just stunning and more so, through your eyes. Arigato!

  14. BOYSIE says:

    Hi Coco,
    What a charming model you are; you look beautiful sweetie. Lovely work Beano; Tokyo has been a fabulous addition to your trip. Looking forward to the suprise!
    Love Guy

  15. Louise says:

    Pat – I love Coco’s smile too. Having photographed her a zillion times, I know when she’s really smiling as opposed to trying to – and it never ceases to delight me.
    Steve – Oh good!
    Lydian – Many thanks.
    Ellen – She’s growing like weeds of late. I keep catching a glimpse of her long limbs and thinking, really? But yes, really.
    Nancy – Cannot tell you how much Coco is looking forward to seeing her ‘girls’ again. She sends big love to Elyse.
    Red Peony – Oh, thanks so much. And yeah, Coco loved that day – was in her element.
    Evan – Really? How interesting. Thanks for enlightening me.
    Annie – That’s so lovely. Not the tears – okay, maybe the tears! I like to move.
    Joel – They’re little biscuits in the shape of tiny kimono ladies. And no, I’m sorry to say I didn’t whip them up!
    Kari – Very happy you’re loving Tokyo! It’s going to be hard to get on that plane I can tell you.
    Kylie – If I had my chance again I’d come in April to see the blossom. I know it’s hugely busy then but my lord it must look glorious. Either that or winter and see Japan under snow. Wow.
    Whispering Gums – Everything and everyone is squeezed in something or other in Tokyo aren’t they? I love the ‘two car garage’ where one car sits on a lift above the other, with only its lower half visible.
    Anna – Oh but I like to explain! So glad you’re enjoying it.
    Boysie – Coco loved hearing from her uncle Guy! Much love to you all.

  16. Fer Buenos Aires says:

    Simply a-ma-zing!

  17. Brent Wilson says:

    This has got to be one of the most inspiring and moving posts so far. Coco is just so happy! Home schooling???? How can you teach joy and happiness like this? More kimonos please! I have looked at this post twice and I
    can’t decide which image I like the best there are so many great photographs in this post!

    • Louise says:

      She absolutely loved the day but Coco is just an extremely happy soul. She’s glass full, overflowing actually. And yeah, don’t mention home schooling!

  18. Sarah says:

    Just such a joyful and happy post (as per Brent above me). I really enjoyed this!

  19. Di @ beachtropic says:

    Hi Lou
    For some reason the shot of Coco and Hatue brought tears to my eyes. I too love the kimonos and the sweets and those DIVINE plates, but I especially love how Coco has settled in and is embracing the journey.
    Di x

    • Louise says:

      I love the shot of Coco and Hatue too – it’s slightly soft, out of focus, but I had to include it – you can just see a flicker of the real Hatue in it I think, her guard let down by a child’s exuberance and affection.

  20. Mimi says:

    Kirei!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So artfully beautiful, you brought out the true beauty of Japanese culture in this post!! Coco is soooo sweet and beautiful in kimono!!

    • Louise says:

      Arigato!

  21. Muslin Backdrops says:

    I love the pictures you post here and very good culture they have. Thank you a whole lot for sharing us about this update. Want you won’t get exhausted on producing posts as insightful as this.

    muslin backdrops

  22. Graeme says:

    Your work is truly inspirational.

    • Louise says:

      Very kind, thank you!

  23. Amanda says:

    Hi Louise :) i’ve enjoyed following your blog for the last year and I just came to Tokyo on holiday and inspired by this lovely post, I went wondering around in this suburb today just because of you :) Had a lovely time so thankyou for this post!

    • Louise says:

      It’s a great little area isn’t it? So happy you were inspired to go there. Did you sample the wagashi?

  24. Amanda says:

    I did! Loved it :) One of my favourite things about Tokyo is the abundance of food places so that you can just walk along and try something new every 50m or so :)

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