Sri Lanka, Part One

 

I’m going to start a new website/blog soon (about time!) but before I do that, I wanted to finish off here with one final installment (in two parts) – Sri Lanka!

Coco and I spent a few weeks there last December, almost by accident really. We were all set to travel to northern India, but due to extra horrendous air pollution and Coco’s propensity for developing respiratory issues even in squeaky clean Sydney, we changed our plans at the last minute and headed south to Sri Lanka instead.

Lightening quick history for those curious: Way old (125,000 years), invaded by the Portuguese (1500s), then the Dutch (1600s), then the English (1800s). Population wise, Sri Lankan people are a diverse lot, but mainly Sinhalese with a large Tamil minority. These two groups didn’t get on for a while (30 years) but since 2009, when the civil war ended, things are decidedly better.

Okay, shall we saunter, very slowly, in supremely sultry Sri Lanka …

After about a four hour drive from Colombo, we arrived at our first destination – nowhere. But a very beautiful, calming nowhere.

 

the view of nothing is everything

 

 

 

 

 

touching the earth lightly :: 1

 

 

 

 

 

touching the earth lightly :: 2

 

 

 

 

 

Santani, the ‘minimalist luxury’ resort we’d landed at, is undoubtedly a beautiful place. But in my rush to book last minute accommodation after India fell through, I may not have fully understood the offering – very chilled, with a focus on health and wellness. After a day of being ‘nowhere’, I have to be honest – I needed to be somewhere.

So we went daytripping, to the nearby city of Kandy, Sri Lanka’s ancient capital. As you might remember, I’m not a great tourist and I generally don’t like sight-seeing, but it was either that or more ‘relaxing’. First stop, a big deal in the Buddhist world, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. We didn’t spy the tooth of Buddha but I did meet this beautiful woman there.

 

dressed for puja at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic

 

 

 

 

 

there’s always a queue to see the Sacred Tooth Relic

 

 

 

 

 

We also stuck our noses into Kandy’s Royal Botanical Gardens. A huge sprawling place full of giant, ancient trees.

 

land of giant trees :: 1

 

 

 

 

 

land of giant trees :: 2

 

 

 

 

 

land of giant trees :: 3

 

 

 

 

 

practising their English on Coco

 

 

 

 

 

above ground roots?

 

 

 

 

 

Sri Lanka has an incredible variety of flora, as the lovely Dileepa back at the resort had told us. It’s biodiversity heaven apparently, with more than 3,000 different plant species.

 

Dileepa, the 20 year old naturalist

 

 

 

 

 

After our daytripping we did a bit more relaxing (yawn), and then headed north to see the ancient rock and palace fortress of Sigiriya, a UNESCO listed world heritage site. We climbed up about 800 of its 1,200 stairs, forgoing the final ‘Lion Staircase’ – in the heat, dripping with sweat from the unbelievable humidity, that was plenty, believe me.

 

ancient rock fortress ahead

 

 

 

 

 

1,500 year old water gardens

 

 

 

 

 

the (slow) ascent of man

 

 

 

 

 

Sigiriya’s spiral spin-out

 

 

 

 

 

we meet again

 

 

 

 

 

the final assault up the Lion Staircase. or not

 

 

 

 

 

The other highlight was a visit to Minneriya National Park to see elephants roaming wild. While some elephant ‘attractions’ in Sri Lanka chain their star performers, these elephants are free to wander wherever they like.

captured on camera but free to roam

 

 

 

 

 

where elephants have right of way

 

 

 

 

 

mum and the two kids

 

I like to think she’s smiling

 

 

 

 

 

curl

 

 

 

elephant spotting

 

 

 

 

 

Coco on safari

 

 

 

 

 

From there, we drove south through the tea plantation hills, on our way down to the coast.

 

tea for as far as the eye can see

 

 

 

 

 

lush

 

 

 

 

 

moody mountains

 

 

 

 

 

After spending hours and hours winding down from the hills through lush green forest, it’s quite something to finally reach the coast and Sri Lanka’s beautiful beaches. We stayed in Tangalle, where the sand is a brilliant white and in the middle of the day, burning hot.

 

white hot :: 1

 

 

 

 

 

white hot :: 2

 

 

 

 

 

After Tangalle, we travelled west to Galle, and went on another ‘safari’, only this time on a river.

 

river life :: 1

 

 

 

 

 

river life :: 2

 

 

 

 

 

river life :: 3

 

 

 

 

 

corner shop

 

 

 

 

 

greetings, welcome to Temple Island

 

 

 

 

 

The proximity to water, from the beaches to the rivers, is very much part of Sri Lanka’s appeal. But in 2004, this proximity proved deadly when a massive tsunami hit, killing more than 30,000. People had no warning whatsoever – one minute it was life as normal, and the next, the world turned upside down.

 

before and after the tsunami hit

 

 

 

 

 

It was 14 years ago, yet you can still see signs of the devastation along the coast in the form of abandoned, ruined homes.

 

everything went underwater

 

 

 

 

 

the jungle reclaims its territory

 

 

 

 

 

The day I visited this area just outside Galle, I was on my own. It was incredibly eerie and sad, wandering around these homes, imagining them once filled with happy families and wondering what happened to them, if they managed to get out alive.

 

home, once upon a time :: 1

 

 

 

 

 

home, once upon a time :: 2

 

 

 

 

 

Just as I was going to leave, I noticed some other homes around the corner that were in much better shape and still inhabited. As I approached one, a lovely woman holding her baby came out to greet me. She was so warm and welcoming, and I felt so happy that she and her husband had survived the unimaginable ordeal – and had gone on to produce a beautiful child.

 

home, still :: 1

 

 

 

 

 

We chatted for a while, before a gaggle of kids swarmed around us. I don’t know how old they were but most of them looked younger than 14 – for them, a tsunami is something they’ve only ever heard or read about. I so hope they never get to experience it firsthand.

 

home, still :: 2

 

 

 

 

 

new life after the tsunami :: 1

 

 

 

 

 

new life after the tsunami :: 2

 

 

 

 

 

pray the tsunami never happens again

 

 

 

 

 

Stay tuned for the second part of Sri Lanka soon!

 

33

Lower East Side

LES intro

 

After the highs of the last few neighbourhoods, I came down with a thud this week.

Zero energy and worse, zip curiosity – all my life I’ve been curious and keen to turn a corner, but suddenly I felt like all I wanted to see were the insides of my eyeballs.

Not surprising – we’ve been travelling for nine months without a break – but not helpful either.

So I decided to compromise. I’d take it easy and explore somewhere close.

We’re staying in an apartment in the West Village so close could mean a number of places. Definitely not the West Village though – it’s still charming but just not very interesting – but the Lower East Side, that could work. Manhattan may have lost its edge but as someone we met said, “Yeah, but we still got the Lower East Side”.

‘Suburb’ No 33 decided.

Some facts… The Lower East Side (LES) – which is the bit south of East Houston and north of East Broadway and Canal Street – is important historically because it was the first home immigrants knew, beginning with the Irish, Germans and East European Jews in the 1840s, to the Italians in the 1890s and then the Puerto Ricans and Dominicans in the 1940-50s. The latest waves have been the Chinese from 1965 and the hipsters more recently.

Let’s amble. Slowly if that’s alright with you.

 

Part 1: From the past to the present

As I mentioned, the LES is getting more hipsterish by the day. But was there more to it than just the cool cafes, boutiques and art galleries? Was there still a ‘neighbourhood’?

In the 1840s there definitely was a neighbourhood. But it was one that was filled with thousands of people per square mile, all desperately trying to pursue the ‘American Dream’ while crammed into dark, noisy, dirty tenement buildings without electricity, water or loos…

 

 

now there's AC but back then there wasn't even any electricity - or water or loos - in the tenements

now there’s AC but back then there wasn’t even any electricity – or water or loos – in the tenements

 

 

 

 

Ridley's was a big department store in the petticoat era

Ridley’s was a big department store in the petticoat era

 

 

 

 

Despite the bad conditions, Eastern European Jews in particular thrived in the LES. They lived in the tenements and set up shop down below, stitching and silversmithing their way to a better life. And in 1886 they put their stamp on the place forever by building a magnificent shul, the Eldridge Street Synagogue.

 

 

same vintage - the synagogue and the pushcarts

same vintage – the synagogue and the pushcarts

 

 

 

 

You’re seeing the Eldridge Street Synagogue at its best, at the end of a 20 year restoration. When I first laid eyes on it, I imagined how thrilled the local Jewish community must be, to have it as their shul. But when I visited it on Saturday, their day of prayer, I was stunned at how few were there – orthodox Jews still live on the LES but there are relatively few compared to 100 years ago.

 

 

Eldridge Street Synagogue, restored to its 1887 glory

Eldridge Street Synagogue, restored to its 1887 glory

 

 

 

 

Joseph, one of just a handful attending the synagogue

Joseph, one of just a handful attending the synagogue

 

 

 

 

John Safran's cousin?

John Safran’s cousin?

 

 

 

 

Part 2: Jewish life on the LES

Having discovered the Eldridge Street Synagogue I was keen to explore the rest of the Jewish LES. So I headed to Orchard Street, knowing that this was where many of the Eastern European Jewish immigrants had worked 14 hour days to buy small shops and establish the area as a bargain mecca.

Well, that was then and this was now – there’s hardly any more Jewish shops left on Orchard Street. I read later that as late as the 1960s, the eight blocks on Orchard Street between East Houston and Divsion Street were filled with Jewish owned shops, selling everything from fabrics to luggage.

Thankfully though the neighbourhood still has Samuel Gluck, owner of Global International Mens Clothiers. Business may not be brisk but Sam isn’t going down without a fight – in the short time we were there he corralled two guys who just happened to be walking by to slip on a jacket or two. This is a man who hustles while he waits.

 

 

one of the last - No 62 Orchard has been here almost 60 years

one of the last – No 62 Orchard has been here almost 60 years

 

 

 

 

Sam’s father arrived in NY in 1945 from Romania with nothing but managed to start up the business and thrive – so far it’s been going for almost 60 years. But the last decade especially has seen massive change in the area.

Given the changing population of the LES – from Orthodox Jews to hipsters and the Chinese – Sam is doing what he can to adapt.

 

 

'Now I tuck my curls behind my ears to blend in more'

‘I tuck my curls behind my ears to blend in more’

 

 

 

 

Hey Sam, I need a new suit for tonight, can you organise it?

Hey Sam, I need a new suit for tonight, can you organise it?

 

 

 

 

Leaving Sam to scout the street for more potential customers, I continued my search for other remnants of the Jewish LES. Not surprisingly, it’s the Jewish food businesses that are far from struggling – the Jewish like their nosh.

 

 

there were no sons

there were no sons

 

 

 

 

sacrosanct in Jewish life - bagels and the Torah

sacrosanct in Jewish life – bagels and the Torah

 

 

 

 

Still, they now have to compete with all the Chinese offerings.

 

 

knishes or noodles - take your pick

knishes or noodles?

 

 

 

 

But not with the ‘Cup & Saucer Luncheonette’ on Eldridge Street. This place is all but washed up.

 

 

the Cup & Saucer Luncheonette is all but washed up

the Cup & Saucer Luncheonette is all but washed up

 

 

 

 

Part 3: The Buddhists of the LES

I read that the Puerto Ricans and Dominicans are the latest immigrants to arrive in the LES. But I think maybe they must be in the East Village rather than the LES because I didn’t really notice them so much. To me the LES is really about the Jewish and the Chinese.

While most Chinese of course hang around in neighbouring Chinatown, they’ve also in recent years strayed into the LES. Eldridge Street, for example, where the Cup & Saucer Luncheonette is still hanging on for dear life, is now very Chinese – there’s a Buddhist ‘temple’ just one door down from the Eldridge Street Synagogue.

I only discovered this by stumbling on it after I’d left the synagogue that Saturday morning. From one lot of faithful to another, albeit a very different one.

 

 

the far East vs Eastern Europe - the Buddhist temple and the synagogue

the far East vs Eastern Europe – the Buddhist temple and the synagogue

 

 

 

 

the Buddhist abbot

the Buddhist abbot

 

 

 

 

honouring their ancestors

honouring their ancestors

 

 

 

 

men in robes

men in robes

 

 

 

 

I obviously tried the Abbot’s patience because a moment after I took the shot above he turned on his heel and went inside to get another Buddhist monk to come out and ‘heavy’ me. Very surreal, being eyeballed by a black African Buddhist who wasn’t having any of my backchat. He was right, I had stayed long enough, but still, it seemed so un-Buddhist.

 

 

swish

swish

 

 

 

 

Part 4: The Chinese

I find the mix of Jewish and Chinese in the LES particularly interesting – while they seem so different, they’ve both successfully transplanted their rich cultural practices all over the world.

 

 

the different faces of the LES - Jewish, Chinese, American

the different faces of the LES – Jewish, Chinese, American

 

 

 

 

foreign neighbours

foreign neighbours

 

 

 

 

Walking along Division Street, I noticed a woman burning a whole load of papers near a stool piled high with dumplings and incense. She was performing a ceremony to pay her respects to someone who died. It was right outside a shop where they were making those 3D paper models that we’d seen in Hong Kong that would later be burnt to ensure a good afterlife.

It didn’t matter that she wasn’t somewhere tranquil or grander than a street somewhere in NYC. This was her culture and she’d practice it wherever.

 

 

smoke and fire on the Lower East Side - paying respects

smoke and fire on the Lower East Side – paying respects

 

 

 

 

It was the same as the Jews – they’d transplanted their culture all the way from Eastern Europe to an entirely foreign land and made it work.

 

 

 

both involve fire and prayer

both involve fire and prayer

 

 

 

 

doorways into different worlds

doorways into different worlds

 

 

 

 

Part 5: The latest wave to arrive on the LES – the hipsters

Okay, they’re not exactly immigrants but they do have their own culture. Fortunately for older neighbourhoods like the LES it usually involves recycling vintage spaces into cafes and galleries rather than knocking them down altogether.

Unfortunately though, for the Chinese, the hipsters seem to be inadvertently pushing some of them out by pushing the rents up – I read about a building on Delancey where the long-term Chinese residents hated the hipsters for paying the higher rents and thereby endangering their affordable ones. 

 

 

the latest wave to hit the LES after the Chinese - the hipsters :: 1

the latest wave to hit the LES after the Chinese – the hipsters :: 1

 

 

 

 

the latest wave to hit the LES after the Chinese - the hipsters :: 2

the latest wave to hit the LES after the Chinese – the hipsters :: 2

 

 

 

 

recycled shirt shop - now a gallery

recycled shirt shop – now a gallery

 

 

 

 

Part 6: A little on the wild side

Starting with this one – note the gentleman on the left, a new cross-breed – the Chinese hipster.

 

 

Lower East wild Side - the dragon and the leopard

Lower East wild Side – the dragon and the leopard

 

 

 

 

Then there’s Shaggy, a curious canine we met on Clinton Street.

 

 

not only does Shaggy wear shoes

not only does Shaggy wear shoes

 

 

 

 

he also has a cap

he also has a cap

 

 

 

 

I'm guessing Shaggy doesn't eat dog food either

I’m guessing Shaggy doesn’t eat dog food either

 

 

 

 

And finally, two lions.

 

raaa! Shadow, you don't scare me

raaa! Shadow, you don’t scare me

 

 

 

 

Part 7: So is there a neighbourhood in the neighbourhood?

Probably not compared to the closely-knit, highly inter-dependent ones that have inhabited the LES over the last 200 years. But relative to other areas, I think so. I saw signs of it on benches that shop owners put out for the Puerto Rican oldies to pass their time on. On shared steps where people waited for their laundry.

 

 

a hat wearer from way back - Carlos

a hat wearer from way back – Carlos

 

 

 

 

proudly Puerto Rican - Carlos, chewing the fat with Luis

proudly Puerto Rican – Carlos, chewing the fat with Luis

 

 

 

 

waiting for laundry on Broome - Davi and Kumi

waiting for laundry on Broome – Davi and Kumi

 

 

 

 

And in the way the various groups work hard to keep their cultures alive, from the Jews and Chinese to the South Americans.

 

 

keeping different heritages alive

keeping different heritages alive

 

 

 

 

Speaking of Jewish tradition, I learned two new things this week – even if only your mother’s mother’s mother was Jewish, you’re Jewish, and that right now, Jews are celebrating their new year – L’shana Tova!

 

 

'even if only your mother's mother's mother was Jewish, you're Jewish'

‘even if only your mother’s mother’s mother was Jewish, you’re Jewish’

 

 

 

 

Happy New Year - may it be a sweet one

Happy New Year – may it be a sweet one

 

 

 

 

The Wrap

Despite my lack of energy this week, I enjoyed meandering around the LES. I so wish time-machines existed so I could hop in one and travel back to see just how crowded and crazy the neighbourhood used to be. Still, I feel grateful that I saw it when I did – who knows how long those last remnants of the past will be able to hang on for.

 

 

 

from east to west - Coco looking west over the Hudson

from east to west – Coco looking west over the Hudson

 

 

 

On the ‘home front’

As I said, I hit the wall this week – and Coco wasn’t helping. She loves NY but she also loves to regularly remind me what she’s missing: “I miss my friends, my family, my cats and my home.” I can’t argue with her – I miss all those too (especially the cat who is no longer – still haven’t told Coco). As amazing as this project has been and still is, it’s been the longest year – ever. Seriously, I feel like we’ve been away for years. And I’m running a month late so the earliest we’ll be home is late January!

To give us both a boost, Coco and I took the day off and went ‘out’ last Tuesday. We ate sushi and gluten-free cupcakes (Babycakes). We read books at my favourite bookstore in NY (Rizzoli). We broke my cardinal rule of not spending a cent on anything unnecessary and bought ‘stuff’ – me, MAC make-up (because in my fantasy world, I have the time and the patience to fiddle with all that), Coco, a pair of shiny black shoes (because in the real world she’s developed a love of everything fashion – she’s going to be an expensive teenager I can just tell).

We had fun. Except all that retail therapy made me even more worried about money than I already am. Oy vey!

This suburb has been brought to you by @JasonCupitt

 —

See you next Monday-ish.

 

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