50

Footscray

F intro

 

Welcome to Melbourne, a city I’ve never spent more than a few days in or explored beyond the obvious – Fitzroy, St Kilda, that sort of thing. And anyway, that was eons ago, when Fitzroy was the latest hip thing and Chapel Street was still cool.

What was it like nowadays I wondered – and so here we are, city No 13 on 52 Suburbs Around the World.

I’d planned to spend longer but the way things have worked out means that we’ll only be here for two weeks, which, considering the size (four million-ish) and diversity of Melbourne is really not enough to do the city justice. But I need to get Coco back to school (she’s already missing the first week or so) and so two suburbs it will have to be.

For the first of those two suburbs I ended up choosing one that quite a few people suggested on my Facebook page – Footscray, five kilometres west of the city.

Some fast facts… Aboriginal forever until 1803 when the first European stepped foot in the area. Declared a municipality in 1859 with a population of 300 and 70 buildings. Industrial from mid-1800s until the 1960s and 70s when it began to decline. Central Footscray is now one of the main shopping and transport hubs for Melbourne’s western suburbs. Once very European, today the suburb is mainly Asian and African.

Ready?

 

Part 1: Footscray in a former life

Once upon a time the Footscray shopping strip was a little Europe, with Greeks, Italians and Yugoslavians filling the place. Times have clearly changed – I think I counted just three Italian establishments and not even one Greek joint. But I did find a Greek Orthodox Church and a wonderful Italian pasticceria dishing out some of the best cannoli in Melbourne.

 

 

old Footscray - Heidi at the Greek Orthodox church

old Footscray – Heidi at the Greek Orthodox church

 

 

 

 

Standing outside the Italian pasticceria, T Cavallaro and Sons, that’s been fattening up the suburb for more than 50 years, I met Ben and Matthew, 10 year old twins from an Italian background. They were in Footscray with their parents to pick up a cake for the 50th wedding anniversary of their nonna and nonno.

 

 

double-take - redheads in Footscray

double-take – redheads in Footscray :: 1

 

 

 

 

Ben and Matthew, 10, from an Italian background, picking up a cake for the 50th wedding anniversary of their nonna and nonno

double-take – redheads in Footscray :: 2

 

 

 

 

Apparently the pasticceria’s cannoli also draw crowds from all around with their creamy, thick, thigh-expanding deliciousness.

 

 

the best in town - cannelloni from T Cavallaro and Sons

the best in town – cannoli from T Cavallaro and Sons

 

 

 

 

Sitting at one of the cafes along a street that’s now dominated mainly by East African men, I caught sight of something else very European – a beret sitting atop the head of 77 year old Elias, originally from Bosnia.

 

 

Elias, 77, from Bosnia - "Where have I lived in Melbourne? Richmond and Footscray"

Elias, 77, from Bosnia – “Where have I lived in Melbourne? Richmond, Footscray, lots of places”

 

 

 

 

In search of more Greeks or Italians, I headed to Yarraville, just down the road from Footscray, where I found a Greek christening taking place.

 

 

"There's a few of us still here in Yarraville" - a Greek Christening

“There’s a few of us still here in Yarraville” – a Greek Christening

 

 

 

 

Zoe at her cousin's Christening at a Greek Orthodox church, Yarraville

Zoe at her cousin’s Christening at a Greek Orthodox church, Yarraville

 

 

 

 

But that was about it for signs of the old European Footscray – today it’s quite a different story…

 

 

Part 2: Footscray today

Or Footscary as some people refer to it thanks to the crime and drug problems it once faced and still faces to some extent.

Locals told me that 15 years ago the whole area, from Footscray to Yarraville, was down at heel and druggy. “If you got off at Yarraville train station, or Seddon, or Footscray, you’d be offered drugs”, was what I kept hearing.

Since then Yarraville cleaned up its act and is now fully gentrified. And Seddon, which is much closer to Footscray – in fact, is actually considered a part of Footscray – looks pretty glam too.

But Footscray itself, especially around the shopping centre, is still yet ‘to go’ – as one lady said, “The trendies haven’t made it here yet thank god”. Instead, it’s populated largely by immigrants – Vietnamese, Chinese and, more recently, East Africans.

Having said that, there is one part of the suburb, along the Maribyrnong River, that’s been designated an arts precinct. One moment you’re in highly multicultural Footscray, the next you’re looking over the river, latte in hand from the Happy River Cafe, before taking a round of the Footscray Community Arts Centre.

 

 

Footscray today - at one end, artsy, the other, Asian

Footscray today – at one end, artsy, the other, Asian

 

 

 

 

Danny and Jo, from China

Danny and Jo, from China

 

 

 

 

"We live here because of the markets and the fact it's so close to the city"

“We live here because of the markets and the fact it’s so close to the city”

 

 

 

 

the latest strangers to be welcomed into Footscray - Africans

the latest strangers to be welcomed into Footscray – Africans

 

 

 

 

transplanted traditions - "It takes six hours for them to do my hair like this and it lasts four months" - Daruka from Sudan

transplanted traditions – “It takes six hours for them to do my hair like this” – Daruka from Sudan

 

 

 

 

African Town

African Town

 

 

 

 

Ngor, 6, from the recently created South Sudan

Ngor, 6, from the recently created South Sudan

 

 

 

Medina from Ethiopia

Medina from Ethiopia

 

 

 

 

growing up Aussie - Medina's daughter, Hawi

growing up Aussie – Medina’s daughter, Hawi

 

 

 

 

Part 3: Arty Footscray

I was checking out the ‘legendary’ Olympic Donuts stand near the station one day when a young African woman in jeans and boots stopped by for a bag of the sugary goodness – after spending days watching the Sudanese, Somali and Ethiopian women go about their business in their traditional dress (most of whom refused to be photographed, drat it) I was curious.

Turned out that Duaa, a 22 year old recent RMIT graduate, was from an Eritrean background but had been born in Melbourne, in nearby Yarraville.

She explained that she now lived a little further west but had just started renting a studio in Footscray to do her art in.

For her, being a “hybrid” as she called it wasn’t confusing or difficult, but something she enjoyed.

And she loved Footscray for its cultural diversity and edge – and cheap rent.

 

 

Duaa, 22, born and bred in Western Melbourne by parents from Eritrea

“I like being a hybrid, it’s normal now in this country” – Duaa

 

 

 

 

Given her studio’s address – in one of the dodgiest bits of Footscray, near where a handful of druggies hang around every day – the rent was attractively cheap. And the colourful graphics painted along the laneway were doing their best to uplift. But still, you couldn’t help looking over your shoulder once or twice.

 

 

outside her studio

“My family wasn’t thrilled when I told them where my studio was” – Duaa, outside her studio

 

 

 

 

"I like being a hybrid of Eritrean and Australian, it's normal now in this country"

“I don’t want to be famous, I just want to make art that’s considered significant in some way”

 

 

 

 

"If I work late, I always check to see who's hanging around downstairs before I go - it can be a little scary at times"

“If I work late, I always check to see who’s hanging around downstairs before I go – it can be a little scary”

 

 

 

 

Part 4: West Footscray

Technically a separate suburb but one that I strayed into without realising I’d actually left Footscray proper. And interesting because this is where the Indian part of Footscray is, as well as the latest wave of new arrivals – whities. Or as someone I met who lived there said, “West Footscray is where people from Elwood (an eastern suburb) come to breed”.

 

 

Kalpita and Priyanka, in West Footscray for an Indian friend's child's birthday party

Kalpita and Priyanka, in West Footscray for an Indian friend’s child’s birthday party

 

 

 

 

India

India

 

 

 

 

twirls - candles from the Macedonian church and Priyanka's dress

twirls – candles from the Macedonian church and Priyanka’s dress

 

 

 

 

the most recent arrivals - whities - Matt with son Euan, 9, bought in West Footscray 3 years ago

the most recent arrivals – whities – Matt with son Euan, 9, bought in West Footscray 3 years ago

 

 

 

 

West Footscray - recently turned homely

West Footscray – recently turned homely :: 1

 

 

 

 

West Footscray - recently turned homely :: 2

West Footscray – recently turned homely :: 2

 

 

 

 

patriotism in the burbs - Australia Day, West Footscray

patriotism in the burbs – Australia Day, West Footscray

 

 

 

 

Part 5: And then I met…

Driving along the main road in West Footscray one day, I noticed men in stetsons standing outside ‘501 Receptions’. Texans? Mexicans? I circled back and went inside the building to find a wedding in full swing. But they weren’t Texans or Mexicans – these were gypsies.

My delight at crashing a gypsy wedding was, however, short-lived. I’d only taken a few shots when a tough looking broad – and she can only be described as a broad – suddenly swooped on me and ordered me to leave. Why I do not know – gypsies have a long history of being misrepresented but I’d already asked permission and been warmly welcomed by everyone, including the mothers of both the groom and the bride who were perfectly happy to let me take photographs.

After all the refusals by the African men and women earlier in the week, it was incredibly frustrating – there were some amazing looking people in the room and I was so curious to learn more.

What made it worse was the way the woman did it – I mean, sure, ask me to leave nicely – but don’t march me out like a child.

So I acted like a child and snuck in another few shots while she wasn’t looking – of a man who turned out to be the proud son of Ruby Sterio, the Queen of Gypsies and part of the famous Sterio gypsy family. Then I left.

 

 

Bill, father of the groom

Bill, father of the groom

 

 

 

 

"We live in a caravan and move all the time" 1

“We live in a caravan and move all the time” :: 1

 

 

 

 

"We live in a caravan and move all the time" :: 2

“We live in a caravan and move all the time” :: 2

 

 

 

 

free as a gypsy

free as a gypsy

 

 

 

 

wild west

wild west indeed

 

 

 

Driving around after I’d left the gypsies, I turned a random corner to find yet another unexpected sight – a large Buddhist temple in the midst of normal suburban homes.

Fearing the place was empty, I climbed the stairs and peered through the gap in the large front door to see and hear two Buddhist nuns praying.

After the experience with the aggressive woman at the gypsy wedding, I sat happily, listening to the soothing prayers until the nuns had finished. Then I asked if I could photograph them – and hallelujah, they said yes. And they stood, and they stood, and they stood, until I’d done what I needed to do. They giggled, I laughed, we all smiled.

 

 

 

prayer time

prayer time

 

 

 

 

zen in West Footscray -Vietnamese Buddhist Church, Phat Quang Pagoda

zen in West Footscray -Vietnamese Buddhist Church, Phat Quang Pagoda

 

 

 

 

they pray for "world peace and people's happiness" :: 1

they pray for “world peace and people’s happiness” :: 1

 

 

 

 

they pray for "world peace and people's happiness" :: 2

they pray for “world peace and people’s happiness” :: 2

 

 

 

 

a different world

a different world

 

 

 

 

from Yarraville to West Footscray

from Yarraville to West Footscray

 

 

 

 

old and new Australia

old and new Australia

 

 

 

 

The Wrap

The diversity in Footscray isn’t limited to the various nationalities and cultures. It’s also incredibly diverse in its land use and the way it changes so quickly from one thing to another. 

For example, down near the river there’s the Community Arts Centre and cool cafe (where the annual Laneway Festival kicks off this weekend) which are right opposite an old factory where blokes like Tony, Lance and Brendan work, waiting for that inevitable day when their factory gets ‘recycled’ into fancy apartments – “In three years we’ll be gone for sure”.

 

 

great views for a factory - Tony, Lance and Brendan at the Ryco hydraulic factory - "In three years this'll be fancy apartments for sure"

great views for a factory – Tony, Lance and Brendan at the Ryco hydraulic factory

 

 

 

 

Then up near the Footscray shops, there’s Asia and Africa – as well as myriad churches catering for the various different communities.

 

 

church land

church land

 

 

 

But as soon as you hit Seddon, which is five seconds down the road, it’s vintage shops like The Diamond Dog, run by the wonderful Sally, and hip cafes.

 

 

from Vietnam to vintage

from Vietnam to vintage

 

 

 

 

playing dress up just down the road in Seddon and Yarraville

playing dress up just down the road in Seddon and Yarraville

 

 

And there’s more change in store – Footscray has been designated a key growth area for Melbourne and the government has big plans for it. But even without that, given the way the surrounding areas have gentrified, maybe Footscray would end up going that way too. In short, go see it now – before the “trendies” get to it.

 

 

On the ‘home front’

Like Auckland, we’re lucky enough to be staying with friends here. So like Auckland, Coco sat this one out too. But here’s a shot of her with two Swedish girls at St kilda Library who we met on our way to buy groceries one day.

 

 

Coco and the Swedish girls

Coco and the Swedish girls

 

 

 

As I mentioned, some time next week – probably mid-week given I have yet to start shooting the second Melbourne suburb – Coco will pull on heavy black shoes and a green tartan uniform, and for the first time in over a year, do that most normal of things – go to school.

I asked her how she felt about it, after such a long time away – “Well I’m excited but a little nervous”. Fair enough, I thought, I am too.

 —

This suburb has been brought to you by Bronwyn Evans

See you next week – for the penultimate post.

 

49

Avondale

A intro

 

For the second and final Auckland post I did think I should probably balance the first Otara post – poorish and Polynesian – with one set in a suburb more affluent and white.

But when I read that 40% of Auckland’s population were born overseas and that according to a recent study by Statistics New Zealand, minority communities are almost certain to outnumber whities in Auckland in the next few years, I decided to choose a suburb that might be more reflective of Auckland’s future than its past – Avondale, west of the city centre.

Quick facts. Settled after the late 1850s when the Great North Road was built. Early industries included brickyards, tanneries and market gardens. Semi-famous for the ‘Avondale spider’, a huntsman spider from Australia, as well as Sunday produce and flea markets. Population wise, a real mix of people from all over the globe.

Let’s do it.

 

Part 1: At the local mosque

Wandering around the shops at Avondale I found a spice shop run by some Afghans. Was there a mosque nearby, I asked. Yes, just up the road, turn left, you can’t miss it, they said.

But I did almost miss it. Because Avondale’s mosque doesn’t look anything like a mosque – more like an oldish school hall without a minaret or dome in sight.

What was very mosque-like, however, were all the people piling into the unassuming building – Afghans, Indonesians, Indians and Somalians, all dressed in their traditional clothes. Swarthy men in white salwar kameez-type suits, caps and keffiyeh scarves. The women covered from head to toe. This was a mosque, no doubt about it.

 

 

the only domes at the Avondale mosque

the only domes at the Avondale mosque

 

 

 

 

a far cry from the mosques of his own country - Wasim, 18, from Afghanistan

a far cry from the mosques of his own country – Wasim, 18, from Afghanistan

 

 

 

 

and more recent ones - Nadia from Ethiopia

and more recent ones – Nadia from Ethiopia

 

 

 

 

the new Kiwi - Gul, originally from Afghanistan

the new Kiwi – Gul, originally from Afghanistan

 

 

 

 

from Afghanistan to Auckland - Hewad and Shahid

from Afghanistan to Auckland – Hewad and Shahid

 

 

 

 

Hewad

Hewad

 

 

 

 

flower girl - Hind from Uzbekistan

flower girl – Hind from Uzbekistan

 

 

 

 

the times of Muslim prayer are determined by the position of the sun

the times of Muslim prayer are determined by the position of the sun

 

 

 

 

Islam in the suburbs

Islam in the suburbs

 

 

 

 

Part 2: From Afghanistan and Uzbekistan to Bangladesh and India

The article I read about the impending shift from white to non-whites said that, between 1986 and 2006, “the numbers born in Asia and now resident in New Zealand increased by 661 per cent, with the Chinese (899.4 per cent) and Indians (841.6 per cent) dominating growth”.

While I certainly saw a huge number of Chinese at the Sunday Avondale markets, I didn’t see that many wandering around the suburb. I did, however, see a lot of people from the Indian subcontinent, including a lovely woman from Bangladesh and another from India. Did they like Auckland and were they fully accepted here? Yes and Yes.

 

 

then and now - Nazreen from Bangladesh

then and now – Nazreen from Bangladesh

 

 

 

 

Bangladeshi Nazreen at the spice shop run by Afghans

Bangladeshi Nazreen at the spice shop run by Afghans

 

 

 

 

successfully transplanted onto NZ soil

successfully transplanted onto NZ soil

 

 

 

 

and more recent ones - Saleha from Gujurat, India

and more recent ones – Saleha from Gujurat, India

 

 

 

With all these people continuing to arrive in NZ from all over the planet, I wondered what the original inhabitants thought – the Maori. Unfortunately I’m none the wiser – the only Maori I met in Avondale was a wonderful man called Jacques. His full face tattoo was so intriguing I completely forgot to ask his opinion on the subject. Instead we discussed his name – his mum named him after Jacques Cousteau because he was the guardian of the sea. Cool.

 

 

recent arrivals and the original ones

recent arrivals and the original ones

 

 

 

 

"I used to be a carver, now I' I'm a truck driver" - Jacques

“I used to be a carver, now I’m a truck driver” – Jacques

 

 

 

 

Part 3: Tonga

While the Chinese and Indians might be pouring into Auckland, the number of overseas-born Pacific people also doubled between 1986 and 2006.

Unlike Samoa which was once administered by New Zealand (1914 to 1962), the kingdom of Tonga, with its 176 islands, has always been independent.

Maybe that’s why the Tongans in Auckland always seem quite regal. Especially when they’re dressed for church, like the ones I met late on a Sunday in Avondale. They’d gathered after church for choir practice as well as a meeting of elders.

 

 

fusion :: 1

fusion :: 1

 

 

 

fusion :: 2

fusion :: 2

 

 

 

 

from the islands

from the islands :: 1

 

 

 

 

from the islands :: 2

from the islands :: 2

 

 

 

 

elders

elders

 

 

 

 

a colourful tale :: 1

a colourful tale :: 1

 

 

 

 

a colourful tale :: 2

a colourful tale :: 2

 

 

 

 

And those wraps around their waists? The women’s decorative waistband is called a kiekie, the men’s, a ta’uvala (which they wear over their tupenu, which is a wrap around skirt with pockets). Both are worn for church.

 

"we wear the skirts to show respect at church" :: 1

“we wear them to show respect at church” :: 1

 

 

 

 

"we wear the skirts to show respect at church" :: 2

“we wear them to show respect at church” :: 2

 

 

 

 

Not that Samoans don’t have a commanding, striking look about them. Check out Samoan John in his church threads, picking us some Chinese takeaway on one of the main shopping roads of Avondale.

 

 

half Western, half Samoan, picking up Chinese takeaway - John, grabbing lunch after church

half Western, half Samoan, picking up Chinese takeaway – John, grabbing lunch after church

 

 

 

 

The Wrap

Everyone I met this week smiled broadly when I asked them how they found their adopted home, Auckland. It reminded me of my travels around some of Sydney’s outer suburbs, where people from around the world are able to start new, productive lives.

Not that it’s all a bed of roses. But while racism and discrimination might exist in suburbs like Avondale, for many people, it’s still a better life than the one they left behind.

Speaking of leaving, we left Auckland on Tuesday, flying off just after sunrise. Peering through the window at the city below, the harbour a perfect sheen, I thought how sad it was that so many tourists would never venture beyond the showy bits, as impressive as they are. If only they shunned the harbour tour and headed inland, to suburbs like Otara and Avondale, they’d see a whole other side of the city. Possibly, dare I say it, a more interesting one.

 

 

 

adios Auckland

adios Auckland

 

 

 

 

aka ditch

aka ditch

 

 

 

 

then and now - Coco in front of a mural depicting old Avondale

then and now – Coco in front of a mural depicting old Avondale

 

 

 

 

island girl

island girl

 

 

 

 

On the ‘home front’

Coco and I want to say a huge thanks to our Auckland friends, Gay, Mark and Meisha. Not only for housing us these past few weeks, but for endlessly driving me around, feeding us every night, and taking Coco off my hands for most of the time. After a year of juggling this project with being a mum and provider of three meals a day, it was such a relief to have at least one of my jobs taken care of. Aside from that, Coco loved her stay with you guys – as well as beautiful Ruby (dog), Saba (cat) and Coco (cat!). You’re all wonderful!

We arrived in Melbourne yesterday and tomorrow we’ll launch into my first suburb here – suburb No 50. 50! Can you believe it?

 —

This suburb has been brought to you by Anna Steiner, Chloe and Monique Leung

See you next week.

 

52 Suburbs Around the World Book

52 Suburbs Around the World Book

New & improved price of $49.95! Click here to purchase!

Order my first book online

Buy the 52 Suburbs Book online

Find out more about the Sydney book here

Sponsors

Momento_180x150 copy

Advertisers