33

Lower East Side

LES intro

 

After the highs of the last few neighbourhoods, I came down with a thud this week.

Zero energy and worse, zip curiosity – all my life I’ve been curious and keen to turn a corner, but suddenly I felt like all I wanted to see were the insides of my eyeballs.

Not surprising – we’ve been travelling for nine months without a break – but not helpful either.

So I decided to compromise. I’d take it easy and explore somewhere close.

We’re staying in an apartment in the West Village so close could mean a number of places. Definitely not the West Village though – it’s still charming but just not very interesting – but the Lower East Side, that could work. Manhattan may have lost its edge but as someone we met said, “Yeah, but we still got the Lower East Side”.

‘Suburb’ No 33 decided.

Some facts… The Lower East Side (LES) – which is the bit south of East Houston and north of East Broadway and Canal Street – is important historically because it was the first home immigrants knew, beginning with the Irish, Germans and East European Jews in the 1840s, to the Italians in the 1890s and then the Puerto Ricans and Dominicans in the 1940-50s. The latest waves have been the Chinese from 1965 and the hipsters more recently.

Let’s amble. Slowly if that’s alright with you.

 

Part 1: From the past to the present

As I mentioned, the LES is getting more hipsterish by the day. But was there more to it than just the cool cafes, boutiques and art galleries? Was there still a ‘neighbourhood’?

In the 1840s there definitely was a neighbourhood. But it was one that was filled with thousands of people per square mile, all desperately trying to pursue the ‘American Dream’ while crammed into dark, noisy, dirty tenement buildings without electricity, water or loos…

 

 

now there's AC but back then there wasn't even any electricity - or water or loos - in the tenements

now there’s AC but back then there wasn’t even any electricity – or water or loos – in the tenements

 

 

 

 

Ridley's was a big department store in the petticoat era

Ridley’s was a big department store in the petticoat era

 

 

 

 

Despite the bad conditions, Eastern European Jews in particular thrived in the LES. They lived in the tenements and set up shop down below, stitching and silversmithing their way to a better life. And in 1886 they put their stamp on the place forever by building a magnificent shul, the Eldridge Street Synagogue.

 

 

same vintage - the synagogue and the pushcarts

same vintage – the synagogue and the pushcarts

 

 

 

 

You’re seeing the Eldridge Street Synagogue at its best, at the end of a 20 year restoration. When I first laid eyes on it, I imagined how thrilled the local Jewish community must be, to have it as their shul. But when I visited it on Saturday, their day of prayer, I was stunned at how few were there – orthodox Jews still live on the LES but there are relatively few compared to 100 years ago.

 

 

Eldridge Street Synagogue, restored to its 1887 glory

Eldridge Street Synagogue, restored to its 1887 glory

 

 

 

 

Joseph, one of just a handful attending the synagogue

Joseph, one of just a handful attending the synagogue

 

 

 

 

John Safran's cousin?

John Safran’s cousin?

 

 

 

 

Part 2: Jewish life on the LES

Having discovered the Eldridge Street Synagogue I was keen to explore the rest of the Jewish LES. So I headed to Orchard Street, knowing that this was where many of the Eastern European Jewish immigrants had worked 14 hour days to buy small shops and establish the area as a bargain mecca.

Well, that was then and this was now – there’s hardly any more Jewish shops left on Orchard Street. I read later that as late as the 1960s, the eight blocks on Orchard Street between East Houston and Divsion Street were filled with Jewish owned shops, selling everything from fabrics to luggage.

Thankfully though the neighbourhood still has Samuel Gluck, owner of Global International Mens Clothiers. Business may not be brisk but Sam isn’t going down without a fight – in the short time we were there he corralled two guys who just happened to be walking by to slip on a jacket or two. This is a man who hustles while he waits.

 

 

one of the last - No 62 Orchard has been here almost 60 years

one of the last – No 62 Orchard has been here almost 60 years

 

 

 

 

Sam’s father arrived in NY in 1945 from Romania with nothing but managed to start up the business and thrive – so far it’s been going for almost 60 years. But the last decade especially has seen massive change in the area.

Given the changing population of the LES – from Orthodox Jews to hipsters and the Chinese – Sam is doing what he can to adapt.

 

 

'Now I tuck my curls behind my ears to blend in more'

‘I tuck my curls behind my ears to blend in more’

 

 

 

 

Hey Sam, I need a new suit for tonight, can you organise it?

Hey Sam, I need a new suit for tonight, can you organise it?

 

 

 

 

Leaving Sam to scout the street for more potential customers, I continued my search for other remnants of the Jewish LES. Not surprisingly, it’s the Jewish food businesses that are far from struggling – the Jewish like their nosh.

 

 

there were no sons

there were no sons

 

 

 

 

sacrosanct in Jewish life - bagels and the Torah

sacrosanct in Jewish life – bagels and the Torah

 

 

 

 

Still, they now have to compete with all the Chinese offerings.

 

 

knishes or noodles - take your pick

knishes or noodles?

 

 

 

 

But not with the ‘Cup & Saucer Luncheonette’ on Eldridge Street. This place is all but washed up.

 

 

the Cup & Saucer Luncheonette is all but washed up

the Cup & Saucer Luncheonette is all but washed up

 

 

 

 

Part 3: The Buddhists of the LES

I read that the Puerto Ricans and Dominicans are the latest immigrants to arrive in the LES. But I think maybe they must be in the East Village rather than the LES because I didn’t really notice them so much. To me the LES is really about the Jewish and the Chinese.

While most Chinese of course hang around in neighbouring Chinatown, they’ve also in recent years strayed into the LES. Eldridge Street, for example, where the Cup & Saucer Luncheonette is still hanging on for dear life, is now very Chinese – there’s a Buddhist ‘temple’ just one door down from the Eldridge Street Synagogue.

I only discovered this by stumbling on it after I’d left the synagogue that Saturday morning. From one lot of faithful to another, albeit a very different one.

 

 

the far East vs Eastern Europe - the Buddhist temple and the synagogue

the far East vs Eastern Europe – the Buddhist temple and the synagogue

 

 

 

 

the Buddhist abbot

the Buddhist abbot

 

 

 

 

honouring their ancestors

honouring their ancestors

 

 

 

 

men in robes

men in robes

 

 

 

 

I obviously tried the Abbot’s patience because a moment after I took the shot above he turned on his heel and went inside to get another Buddhist monk to come out and ‘heavy’ me. Very surreal, being eyeballed by a black African Buddhist who wasn’t having any of my backchat. He was right, I had stayed long enough, but still, it seemed so un-Buddhist.

 

 

swish

swish

 

 

 

 

Part 4: The Chinese

I find the mix of Jewish and Chinese in the LES particularly interesting – while they seem so different, they’ve both successfully transplanted their rich cultural practices all over the world.

 

 

the different faces of the LES - Jewish, Chinese, American

the different faces of the LES – Jewish, Chinese, American

 

 

 

 

foreign neighbours

foreign neighbours

 

 

 

 

Walking along Division Street, I noticed a woman burning a whole load of papers near a stool piled high with dumplings and incense. She was performing a ceremony to pay her respects to someone who died. It was right outside a shop where they were making those 3D paper models that we’d seen in Hong Kong that would later be burnt to ensure a good afterlife.

It didn’t matter that she wasn’t somewhere tranquil or grander than a street somewhere in NYC. This was her culture and she’d practice it wherever.

 

 

smoke and fire on the Lower East Side - paying respects

smoke and fire on the Lower East Side – paying respects

 

 

 

 

It was the same as the Jews – they’d transplanted their culture all the way from Eastern Europe to an entirely foreign land and made it work.

 

 

 

both involve fire and prayer

both involve fire and prayer

 

 

 

 

doorways into different worlds

doorways into different worlds

 

 

 

 

Part 5: The latest wave to arrive on the LES – the hipsters

Okay, they’re not exactly immigrants but they do have their own culture. Fortunately for older neighbourhoods like the LES it usually involves recycling vintage spaces into cafes and galleries rather than knocking them down altogether.

Unfortunately though, for the Chinese, the hipsters seem to be inadvertently pushing some of them out by pushing the rents up – I read about a building on Delancey where the long-term Chinese residents hated the hipsters for paying the higher rents and thereby endangering their affordable ones. 

 

 

the latest wave to hit the LES after the Chinese - the hipsters :: 1

the latest wave to hit the LES after the Chinese – the hipsters :: 1

 

 

 

 

the latest wave to hit the LES after the Chinese - the hipsters :: 2

the latest wave to hit the LES after the Chinese – the hipsters :: 2

 

 

 

 

recycled shirt shop - now a gallery

recycled shirt shop – now a gallery

 

 

 

 

Part 6: A little on the wild side

Starting with this one – note the gentleman on the left, a new cross-breed – the Chinese hipster.

 

 

Lower East wild Side - the dragon and the leopard

Lower East wild Side – the dragon and the leopard

 

 

 

 

Then there’s Shaggy, a curious canine we met on Clinton Street.

 

 

not only does Shaggy wear shoes

not only does Shaggy wear shoes

 

 

 

 

he also has a cap

he also has a cap

 

 

 

 

I'm guessing Shaggy doesn't eat dog food either

I’m guessing Shaggy doesn’t eat dog food either

 

 

 

 

And finally, two lions.

 

raaa! Shadow, you don't scare me

raaa! Shadow, you don’t scare me

 

 

 

 

Part 7: So is there a neighbourhood in the neighbourhood?

Probably not compared to the closely-knit, highly inter-dependent ones that have inhabited the LES over the last 200 years. But relative to other areas, I think so. I saw signs of it on benches that shop owners put out for the Puerto Rican oldies to pass their time on. On shared steps where people waited for their laundry.

 

 

a hat wearer from way back - Carlos

a hat wearer from way back – Carlos

 

 

 

 

proudly Puerto Rican - Carlos, chewing the fat with Luis

proudly Puerto Rican – Carlos, chewing the fat with Luis

 

 

 

 

waiting for laundry on Broome - Davi and Kumi

waiting for laundry on Broome – Davi and Kumi

 

 

 

 

And in the way the various groups work hard to keep their cultures alive, from the Jews and Chinese to the South Americans.

 

 

keeping different heritages alive

keeping different heritages alive

 

 

 

 

Speaking of Jewish tradition, I learned two new things this week – even if only your mother’s mother’s mother was Jewish, you’re Jewish, and that right now, Jews are celebrating their new year – L’shana Tova!

 

 

'even if only your mother's mother's mother was Jewish, you're Jewish'

‘even if only your mother’s mother’s mother was Jewish, you’re Jewish’

 

 

 

 

Happy New Year - may it be a sweet one

Happy New Year – may it be a sweet one

 

 

 

 

The Wrap

Despite my lack of energy this week, I enjoyed meandering around the LES. I so wish time-machines existed so I could hop in one and travel back to see just how crowded and crazy the neighbourhood used to be. Still, I feel grateful that I saw it when I did – who knows how long those last remnants of the past will be able to hang on for.

 

 

 

from east to west - Coco looking west over the Hudson

from east to west – Coco looking west over the Hudson

 

 

 

On the ‘home front’

As I said, I hit the wall this week – and Coco wasn’t helping. She loves NY but she also loves to regularly remind me what she’s missing: “I miss my friends, my family, my cats and my home.” I can’t argue with her – I miss all those too (especially the cat who is no longer – still haven’t told Coco). As amazing as this project has been and still is, it’s been the longest year – ever. Seriously, I feel like we’ve been away for years. And I’m running a month late so the earliest we’ll be home is late January!

To give us both a boost, Coco and I took the day off and went ‘out’ last Tuesday. We ate sushi and gluten-free cupcakes (Babycakes). We read books at my favourite bookstore in NY (Rizzoli). We broke my cardinal rule of not spending a cent on anything unnecessary and bought ‘stuff’ – me, MAC make-up (because in my fantasy world, I have the time and the patience to fiddle with all that), Coco, a pair of shiny black shoes (because in the real world she’s developed a love of everything fashion – she’s going to be an expensive teenager I can just tell).

We had fun. Except all that retail therapy made me even more worried about money than I already am. Oy vey!

This suburb has been brought to you by @JasonCupitt

 —

See you next Monday-ish.

 

23

Trastevere

T intro

 

For the fourth and final Rome installment, I wanted to venture further afield, into the real suburbs of Rome. But neither Coco nor I have been 100%, and the days have been too short to stray far – with temperatures hitting 36-38 degrees C, you only start thinking about going out after 5pm.

When I reviewed my shortlist of potential Roman neighbourhoods, I decided to choose one that I’d previously dismissed – Trastevere. Just west of the River Tiber, it’s within the Aurelian Walls and is one of the rioni of Rome. Jam packed with history – and tourists.

But as much as I feared it would be too postcard perfect and lacking in depth, I was pleasantly surprised; unlike much of Rome, Trastevere manages to transcend its tourist hordes.

Some facts… Name comes from the Latin trans Tiberim, ‘beyond the Tiber’. Isolated for a long time due to its location across the river. It houses two of the most ancient churches in Rome, Santa Maria and Santa Cecilia, as well as a multitude of restaurants and bars. Today, it’s still a maze of narrow, winding streets paved with the distinctive cobble stones, sampietrini – the enemy of the stiletto.

Okay, for the last time, andiamo!

 

Part 1: Santa Maria

One of the oldest churches in Rome, Santa Maria in Trastevere is tucked away in a corner of the neighbourhood’s main piazza. Not particularly grand or imposing, your eye is drawn more to the central fountain and the restaurants and bars that line the square.

But its interior is impressive – as are the events that take place here. On one day, a prayer vigil for the African boat people, the next, a glamorous wedding. Santa Maria may be a thousand years old but she’s still very much alive and kicking.

 

 

entering Rione XIII, place of many churches

entering Rione XIII, place of many churches

 

 

 

 

Santa Maria, outside and in

Santa Maria, outside and in

 

 

 

 

ripples

ripples

 

 

 

 

in her dreams she swam free

in her dreams she swam free

 

 

 

 

water water everywhere but not a drop to swim in

water water everywhere but not a drop to swim in

 

 

 

 

please God, turn the temperature down

please God, turn the temperature down

 

 

 

 

Part 2: Tourists aren’t the only people who love Italy

Italy is one of the countries that many North Africans and others are fleeing to, in search of a better life. But many don’t survive the journey across the seas. In 2011, 2,200 people died trying to reach Italy’s shores.

We happened to be in Trastevere when a prayer vigil was being held at Santa Maria – Morire di Speranza, Dying of Hope, ‘in memory of victims of voyages to Europe’.

It’s complicated of course; not everyone in Italy wants more immigrants.

It reminded me of the tragedy of the boat people who try to make it to Australia – and the wars they cause amongst the politicians and the populace.

 

 

Morire di Speranza - Dying of Hope

Morire di Speranza - Dying of Hope

 

 

 

 

in memory of Africa's boat people who've lost their lives at sea :: 1

in memory of Africa's boat people who've lost their lives at sea :: 1

 

 

 

 

in memory of Africa's boat people who've lost their lives at sea

in memory of Africa's boat people who've lost their lives at sea :: 2

 

 

 

 

they fled their homes in search of paradise - but ended up in heaven

they fled their homes in search of paradise - but ended up in heaven

 

 

 

 

life is beautiful - and precarious

life is beautiful - and precarious

 

 

 

 

compassion

compassion

 

 

 

 

something needs to change

something needs to change

 

 

 

 

These are hard times in Europe – you can feel the desperation on the streets, far more so than in Australia. As a result, the tensions over immigration are worse than ever. Yet Rome is probably as multicultural as it’s ever been. All the immigrants we met had jobs and felt life in Rome was pretty good. They are the lucky ones.

 

 

Rome is multicoloured - Khan Asi from Pakistan

Rome is multicoloured - Khan Asi from Pakistan

 

 

 

 

and then she hopped on her scooter and drove off - Bernadeth, Sri Lanka

and then she hopped on her scooter and drove off - Bernadeth, Sri Lanka

 

 

 

 

one of the lucky ones - Ignatious from India

one of the lucky ones - Ignatious from India

 

 

 

 

Part 3: Wedding bells

The next day we visited, Santa Maria was hosting an altogether different kind of ceremony – a wedding. Coco and I watched from the back of the church then hopped outside once it was over to take some shots. Kids tearing about the piazza, grandfathers blowing bubbles, kisses everywhere – it was chaos. But I did manage to capture one of the flower girls, Ginevra – well, I tried anyway. Everyone else seemed happy to have me in their midst – but not Ginevra.

 

 

not amused - Ginevra

not amused - Ginevra

 

 

 

 

please Ginevra, turn around so Louise can take your photo

please Ginevra, turn around so Louise can take your photo

 

 

 

 

one angelic, one not

one angelic, one not

 

 

 

 

I gave up in the end. Actually, that’s not true. I never give up. Ginevra and her family drove off so I had no choice. Her mum asked me to send her a photo – didn’t she see that her little darling hadn’t played nice?

Defeated by a four year old I took two more snaps and left. At least the bride smiled at me. Sort of. (Yes, I know, I crashed a wedding, what did I expect?)

 

Sopranos-esque?

Sopranos-esque?

 

 

 

 

I don't remember you being on the guest list

I don't remember you being on the guest list

 

 

 

 

Part 4: The mix

Trastevere is populated by a mix of locals and tourists from all over the planet. You can tell who’s who by  looking at the clock – those eating at the restaurants before 8pm, well, that’s your tourist. No self-respecting Roman would even consider sitting down to dine before then.

First up, a few locals…

 

summer palette - Carlo :: 1

summer palette - Carlo :: 1

 

 

 

 

summer palette - Carlo :: 2

summer palette - Carlo :: 2

 

 

 

 

Carolina and her grandfather, now and in a few years time

Carolina and her grandfather, now and in a few years time

 

 

 

And my favourite, Ferruccio. When I asked to take a photo, he said, one?, why not take two – and proceeded to assume the pose below.

 

'leave the gun, take the cannollis' - The Godfather

'leave the gun, take the cannollis' - The Godfather

 

 

 

 

And then there are the tourists…

 

from freezing Finland to steamy Rome

from freezing Finland to roasting Rome

 

 

 

 

Spanish gals

Spanish gals

 

 

 

 

different walks of life - the busker and the beauty

different walks of life - the busker and the beauty

 

 

 

 

Part 5: Different types

Trastevere has a handful of interesting typefaces and signage from different eras spotted around the place. My favourite, the lettering outside a now derelict 1950s cinema; it was almost demolished a few years ago to make way for apartments but the community loved it so much they resisted the development and won. So far so good anyway.

 

now starring in its own love story

now starring in its own love story

 

 

 

 

dear mum, I met this Italian guy at dinner and I'm staying for the summer

dear mum, I met this Italian guy at dinner and I'm staying for the summer

 

 

 

 

graphics, old and new

graphics, old and new

 

 

 

 

sigh

sigh

 

 

 

 

and its Fiat Bambinos

and its Fiat Bambinos

 

 

 

 

The Wrap

Of the cities we’ve visited so far, Rome seems to be the one that’s most infused with tourists. I suspect in fact that all the ancient pillars and ruins are only remaining vertical for the tourists; were the backpack-wearing, map-toting mobs to evaporate, I think the old stones would take a long last breath before crumbling to the ground. What would they have to live for without the tourists?

But Trastevere seems different to me. Yes it’s touristy, but the place has so much soul that it rises above the masses that come to eat, drink and be merry down its narrow lanes. Were the tourists to evaporate in Trastevere, life would go on here perfectly fine. Just ask Ferruccio.

 

 

the piazza that makes everything glow red

the piazza that makes everything glow red

 

 

 

 

Coco Gelato

Coco Gelato

 

 

 

On the ‘home front’

As I said, both of us haven’t been 100% this week, not helped by the debilitating heat. But Coco was well enough to enjoy her umpteenth gelato so things can’t be too bad.

I, on the other hand, felt much improved after meeting our neighbour. One night this week the power went out in our apartment. Pitch black, no torch, no candles. Both Coco and I on our hands and knees to get down the stairs to the front door to fiddle with the fuse box. After flicking all the switches and nothing happening, I went and buzzed the other apartments – and who should answer our cry for help but this handsome man. He takes one look at the fuse box and flicks a switch I didn’t see – and hey presto, light! The perfect excuse to plant a smoocher on him, on the cheek of course. Just as we were leaving Rome… Agh, he’s probably married anyway.

(Oh, and then I met this incredibly sexy priest in Trastevere. There was definitely chemistry between us. I think. Not sure if you can have chemistry with a priest – Thornbirds anyone? – but I think we did. Yikes.)

Clearly the heat is getting to me and it’s time to head north to cooler climes. So, Rome, arrivederci! Your famous old bits are impressive but it’s your people and your neighbourhoods that I really like. And thanks to everyone we met for their ‘suburb’ suggestions and general encouragement – Lisa, Elisa, Simone and Ana, and Ilaria and Luca. Grazie mille!

This suburb has been brought to you by Chrissy Griffin

We’re heading over to Madrid for a few days to meet up with friends so we’ll see you in Berlin in two week’s time – the first Berlin post will be on Monday July 9. Can’t wait.

 

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